tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74432400519949956722024-02-07T03:11:12.592-08:00The Weather GaugeJim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-60449716537591707822016-11-26T17:17:00.000-08:002016-11-26T17:17:45.289-08:00The Party's Over<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1st sail in 16 years</td></tr>
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Adagio is back in the yard after a short, six week season and I cannot be more pleased with the way she handled.<br />
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During her short season, she was a busy girl: She had her first sail in 16 years, she was on display at the Antique Boat Festival in Salem, she rafted alongside Motif 1 in Rockport and took on 30 knot winds burying her bowsprit a number of times.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Motif 1 - Rockport</td></tr>
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In all that, the only major problem I had was that the shells of some of the blocks started to part under load. That's it. And that isn't terribly surprising given that the polyester epoxy that held them together was at least 16 years old. She didn't sail to windward as well as she should, but that was expected as it was clear during the mast stepping that the length of both headstays need adjustments - adjustments she'll get next year.<br />
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Anyway, she has been the Belle of the Ball for sure and gotten her picture taken repeatedly. During the Salem show some of her most ardent admirers were judges who themselves were wooden boat surveyors.<br />
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But that chapter in her rehab is behind us and a new one begins. This winter will focus on her interior which I did not touch during this rehab thus far. To be fair, it isn't in bad shape, but it is in need of refurbishing. New paint, new varnish, some minor carpentry and much updating.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-CU6mFMqfcZ43V8dmYzPV8eTY-QA6L2zExmD1jk2uMtjyJ73nQFp7MxqIcBeBwr9GqOBWL7RYXpWQ-9pPsWMfnBP0d6-8mYZOjTbHD33prS35svGlIZpQmEe9B9VIvbC0UayVzPNL8w/s1600/IMG_1224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-CU6mFMqfcZ43V8dmYzPV8eTY-QA6L2zExmD1jk2uMtjyJ73nQFp7MxqIcBeBwr9GqOBWL7RYXpWQ-9pPsWMfnBP0d6-8mYZOjTbHD33prS35svGlIZpQmEe9B9VIvbC0UayVzPNL8w/s320/IMG_1224.jpg" width="320" /></a>The holding tank is cracked and the head should be rebuilt (gaskets and whatnot). The electrical panel doesn't stay securely fastened, the face panel to drawers don't stay on, and the water tanks have not been tested. On deck, I need to make some adjustments to the rig, as well as the main hatch and the skylight. Also, the anchor does not cat on the bowsprit properly.<br />
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So, all pretty typical stuff and it is fair to say that she will splash much earlier next year and put some miles beneath her keel before year end.<br />
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-22762655932716302062016-08-04T13:17:00.000-07:002016-08-04T13:17:03.474-07:00 Adagio Has a Wet Bottom<br />
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<i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><b>AUGUST 2, 2016</b></span></i></div>
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<i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><b>ADAGIO LAUNCHED</b></span></i></div>
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Well, after a 2 1/2 year rehab, we did it. <i>Adagio</i> is back in the water. As I have noted on these pages she was put on the hard somewhere around 2000, so she has been dry for over 15 years.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the truck</td></tr>
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A small group of close friends helped us celebrate the day which came with a dry, slightly overcast skies and a 10.5 foot tide.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Champagne Jam</td></tr>
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My wife Jan launched the ship by doing the ceremonial honors (which is her prerogative of course).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On our way</td></tr>
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The boatyard is a tidal estuary. At low water, there is none. So, when you draw five feet, you want all the water you can get. Tuesday came courtesy of a 10+ foot tide and was perfect.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resting comfortably dockside</td></tr>
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I stayed on board Tuesday night tied to the dock where I had shore power and a sump pump that can move a tennis ball through 30' of garden hose if I needed it. But I didn't. By midnight, she had stopped visibly leaking.<br />
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At launch, the pump cycled every 2 minutes for about 20 seconds. As I write this two days later, the pump is now cycling every 20-25 minutes for about 5 seconds. So don't let anyone tell you that cedar doesn't swell.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prettiest Girl at the Dance</td></tr>
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There are still a gajillion things to do and adjustments to make, but that will always be the case. </div>
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For right now, I am just enjoying the moment. </div>
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-21260732355816924672016-07-21T15:33:00.000-07:002016-07-21T15:33:38.760-07:00The Launch of Adagio<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The day has arrived. </span></div>
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<i>Adagio </i> will launch August 2nd at 10:30 a.m. at Greens Point Boatyard Ipswich MA. </div>
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Join us if you can. </div>
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While this is not the end of this rehab, it is a significant milestone for me and for her. She will get wet for the first time in 16 years and she now has a new lease on life. I have learned a great deal and can honestly write that I know this boat in a way that few boat owners know their craft.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To This </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From This . . . </td></tr>
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All that aside, she is an exquisite version of the <i>Dictator </i>class of Friendship Sloops and needed a second chance at life. She is now, once again, the Prettiest Girl at the Dance.<br />
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There is still much to do down below, touch ups here and there and fittings that aren't quite right, but that is always the case. For now, she will back in her element.<br />
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If you can't join us for the launch (it is a weekday), she will be at the <i>Antique & Classic Boat Festival </i>in Salem MA on August 20-21. It is held every year at Hawthorne Cove Marina (next to the House of the Seven Gables) and is always a good take. While going there just to see <i>Adagio</i> is reason enough in my book, there are a lot of really great classic boats there and I'm sure you'll find it well worth your entertainment dollar. Plus, you can vote for your favorite craft (not suggestin', just sayin').<br />
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-13480722332410223522016-06-16T10:57:00.000-07:002016-11-26T17:28:20.674-08:00Motivation<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>"It's a Labor of Love"</i></span></div>
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I have heard this cliche repeatedly as I grind away on this rehab and I have come to loathe it. Like most cliches, however, it is half right. The rehab of <i>Adagio </i><u>is</u> labor.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An Equally Old Story</td></tr>
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However, what I am doing is not unique. In fact, it's an old story: Boy finds boat. Boy falls in love with boat. Boy restores and relaunches boat. It is a story told every month in <i>Wooden Boat </i>magazine and in countless other boatyards country wide.<br />
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However, an equally old story is the one about the rehab or rebuild that began with gusto only to wither and die a slow, debilitating death.<br />
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But, many come by and ask how I keep on doing it (and follow with "It must be a Labor of Love")<br />
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<i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><b>What Motivates People? </b></span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></i>We all know that, early on, the mind supplies the vision of the finished project and that vision fuels the work. However, in time, the weight of the project slowly crushes the vision.<br />
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So, what motivates those who finish from those who don't? Much is written on this topic and I'm not going to rehash it here, but I have always believed that a critical element of Motivation is Purpose. Whatever the goal, it must be part of an overarching Purpose that is <u>Personally Meaningful and Clearly Stated</u><b>.</b> The Purpose must convince you that your world will be a better place with your project complete than incomplete.<br />
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Without a clear, meaningful Purpose, you (or your organization) will fall short of your goal. If you look beneath the surface of any significant achievement, you will find this clarity of Purpose. And, by the way, if the Purpose of your project is not meaningful and clear, why are you doing it?<br />
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As a Recovering Corporate Drone, I sat through endless presentations of SMART goals (all goals should Specific, Measurable, Action-oriented, Realistic and Timebound). While there is some truth to the SMART goal format, it is secondary to Purpose. If there is no clear, meaningful Purpose, your goals can be as SMART as Einstein and still fail.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYdYCTyCTc5o2Hegl1LJ1WD7WWIdK4YKUb57DOX4YJQZeL6u3_3T1nkn2G6x6TB71t9B-9RN4zp7rHe-Huny23HZSX7_ljc2025sR3bUT70IXknHmv26bdQRaJQWXrLmWE11Wg9lhEjHs/s1600/ugly+boat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYdYCTyCTc5o2Hegl1LJ1WD7WWIdK4YKUb57DOX4YJQZeL6u3_3T1nkn2G6x6TB71t9B-9RN4zp7rHe-Huny23HZSX7_ljc2025sR3bUT70IXknHmv26bdQRaJQWXrLmWE11Wg9lhEjHs/s200/ugly+boat.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig A. Really?</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #ffd966; font-size: large;"><i><b><span style="color: #f1c232;">My Purpose</span></b></i><span style="color: #ffd966;"> </span></span><br />
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If I wrote that my Purpose is to give my life over to the restoration of wooden boats, that would be as lofty as it is wrong. There are some wooden craft (and a lot of plastic craft - anything made by Bayliner for example) that I have no interest in seeing on the water (See Figure A and its ilk).<br />
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<br />
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My Purpose in this rehab is simple: To get <u>this</u> particular boat back on the water. Moreover, not only can I <u>see</u> her on the water, I can see the symmetry in her rigging, her angle of heel in a fresh breeze, the sturdy look of her bronze - I can even smell the fresh paint. That's what I mean by "clarity".<br />
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It is meaningful to me because I have always loved classic, gaff rigged working sailboats, their rugged craftsmanship and the traditions they represent. While it is an important part of our heritage, to me, it seems real and pure (that <u>does</u> sound lofty, but it's true).<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_nfciIQU76yzYfQh64pwPwwLc-owYz2m8gChk1aEvsjIn84ZAkEFzB9nmmi9TVUeZNdCGoGhrbcQYiTUMDemZirO3gVfHPf39BCTUF92lsi0rF-0K2joFz6Qdn9NG9y4SauFxDVqXaUQ/s1600/Boat+Planter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_nfciIQU76yzYfQh64pwPwwLc-owYz2m8gChk1aEvsjIn84ZAkEFzB9nmmi9TVUeZNdCGoGhrbcQYiTUMDemZirO3gVfHPf39BCTUF92lsi0rF-0K2joFz6Qdn9NG9y4SauFxDVqXaUQ/s200/Boat+Planter.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">what Might Have Been</td></tr>
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In my mind, this particular Friendship was simply too pretty to become a planter. The arc of her sheer and the quality of her construction required salvation and a trustee. Someone had to take her off the beach, so I did.<br />
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<i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><b>The Spirit is Willing, but the Flesh is Weak</b></span></i><br />
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But . . . .<br />
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There are times when the clarity of Purpose is not enough. Sometimes, you need more. Some people tell friends their goals so they can be cheered on and shamed into doing it. Some have notes tacked up in strategic positions which goad them into action and some have playlists that pump them up and refresh the dream.<br />
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I have three pictures, one in my head and two on the boat. The one in my head is a picture taken from amidships of <i>Desiree </i>looking forward<i> </i>on a port tack. For reasons I cannot explain, this picture reminds me why I'm doing this. Maybe the warm beauty of the wooden spars against the full sails, maybe the bowsprit pointing the way or maybe it's just a well-framed shot. I don't know. It simply represents what will be.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9s1I8Qa58_zNBAxgDG-CSRK8CuQDHPp2RmZU2UypCbwtTDxDe3mcMbk9bT64bS9T4H-mHLk96L6upLC4kUVdrxJmj6Up8dUgijA-00ppugwkAUEiZfzM6Z5P3d5HdwfzrUbQ_WB56DZw/s1600/2016-06-04+09.38.27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9s1I8Qa58_zNBAxgDG-CSRK8CuQDHPp2RmZU2UypCbwtTDxDe3mcMbk9bT64bS9T4H-mHLk96L6upLC4kUVdrxJmj6Up8dUgijA-00ppugwkAUEiZfzM6Z5P3d5HdwfzrUbQ_WB56DZw/s200/2016-06-04+09.38.27.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
The other two pictures are signs. One says <b>"It's not Furniture; it's a Boat!"</b> This is the boatyard equivalent of Voltaire's "Perfect is the Enemy of the Good." Since perfection is as elusive as unicorns and fairy gold, chasing it will keep the boat out of the water forever. This thought runs through my mind repeatedly and keeps me from becoming obsessive about a particular task.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTxGQp_XXYC0VDUBLvRwRopBHgHR6AM5_OyHzcwT5I1hIjivc5XEaX5SI3XX01dHwIEdXEcEHzl3XiH5y26F3FGmYStkK7TxYUzNdM94Mj-JE9fBCpO0SCKUDUqnmDNAFRwuFDWGUat4I/s1600/2016-06-04+09.38.11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTxGQp_XXYC0VDUBLvRwRopBHgHR6AM5_OyHzcwT5I1hIjivc5XEaX5SI3XX01dHwIEdXEcEHzl3XiH5y26F3FGmYStkK7TxYUzNdM94Mj-JE9fBCpO0SCKUDUqnmDNAFRwuFDWGUat4I/s200/2016-06-04+09.38.11.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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The other sign?: <b>"It's not going to do itself."</b> This is self-explanatory, but I can tell you that it pushes me to do something every day howsoever little.<br />
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So, set all the SMART goals you want, but if you want to finish, have a Purpose. Oh, and someone to kick you in the slats - even if it is just a sign.<br />
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<span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: xx-small;"><b>FOOTNOTES</b></span><br />
<span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: xx-small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b><span style="color: #f1c232;">1. </span>For an excellent treatment on Motivation see Dan Pink's <i>Drive.</i> In it, he posits that people are motivated when they have Autonomy (Self Direction), Mastery (something they want to get better at) and Purpose (see above).</b></span><br />
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<br />Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-19507211175468884592016-06-07T05:41:00.000-07:002016-06-07T05:41:22.877-07:00MILESTONES<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 15 YEARS</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">SHE IS ALL ONE COLOR!!</span></div>
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It is only the first coat, but we're getting there . . . </div>
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<br />Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-70034343910167017732016-05-01T17:20:00.000-07:002016-06-07T07:54:24.972-07:00Boatyard Labor - A Bargain at Twice the PriceWhile attending the birthday celebration of a friend recently, another friend commented negatively on my lack of posts on this blog. I won't reveal his name as that would be indiscreet (Larry Ogden), but he's right. However, just because there have been no posts, does not mean there has been no activity. <br />
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So, for the three of you (and Larry) that follow the travails of the good ship <i>Adagio,</i> here's the latest.<br />
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<i><b>COCKPIT TRIM AND TOE RAILS</b></i><br />
<i><b><br /></b></i>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI9BViEVPq7EVQcThyphenhyphennzV85HwGRXeUvALN840VQcpwDaKosYtKqj5DDc1Aryfq9ro-FEGq78XVtf-VE0d0BG-SSSA4iZPySZs4RAOLbmUmJOOLMTcIxGCjyKt6HcZOYZZPgID-8JLH6lM/s1600/2014-02-20+13.20.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI9BViEVPq7EVQcThyphenhyphennzV85HwGRXeUvALN840VQcpwDaKosYtKqj5DDc1Aryfq9ro-FEGq78XVtf-VE0d0BG-SSSA4iZPySZs4RAOLbmUmJOOLMTcIxGCjyKt6HcZOYZZPgID-8JLH6lM/s200/2014-02-20+13.20.08.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheerless as an Empty Hearth</td></tr>
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<i>Adagio's </i>toe rails are each about 40' long and the cockpit trim is about 25'. Both the rails and the cockpit trim are one piece of laminated teak and bent to fit.<br />
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The rails and cockpit trim are all teak and, originally, they were finished bright. However, 15 years of exposure made them look about as cheerless as an empty hearth.<br />
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So, it was time to remove them, strip them down, recondition them and reinstall them. Simple (one would think). And "one" would be right. It is a fairly straightforward process.<br />
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However, what struck <u>this</u> "one," was how much time the whole process took and it gave me a very clear understanding of why boatyard bills can make the national debt look like a dawdle. For the uninitiated (Larry), the process is:<br />
<ul><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5I2UG8Pg98t9uLqny2ihLFhPRg1Jp-UGZWar6pkCYbW50DKCnQ1Mo491kvJe_6ZbL1FnKJOu5wSo1BH7bFR5oo0lBadSWiHXh6HRPu7o5FMks34tFTKjYE_NJpwW6_VVa8_fK3RHWvo/s1600/2016-04-24+09.07.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5I2UG8Pg98t9uLqny2ihLFhPRg1Jp-UGZWar6pkCYbW50DKCnQ1Mo491kvJe_6ZbL1FnKJOu5wSo1BH7bFR5oo0lBadSWiHXh6HRPu7o5FMks34tFTKjYE_NJpwW6_VVa8_fK3RHWvo/s200/2016-04-24+09.07.58.jpg" width="200" /></a>
<li>Drill out the bungs (150 + bungs here) </li>
<li>Back out the fasteners (1:1 ratio of fasteners to bungs)</li>
<li>Remove the rail to a workbench or work area - (in this case lower the 40 foot piece to the ground and thread around the jackstands and out from under the tent)</li>
<li>Remove any old varnish with a heat gun</li>
<li>Sand with an orbital sander </li>
<li>Hand sand to remove sander marks and assure you got all the old weathered and varnish off any non-flat surface. </li>
<li>In this case, thread the 40 foot piece around the jackstands and back up underneath the tent. </li>
<li>Dry fit it to the rail to make sure</li>
<li>Lay a bead of caulking along the rail.</li>
<li>Fit the trim</li>
<li>Fasten it to the rail</li>
<li>Insert bungs</li>
<li>Cut bungs even with rail (a sharp chisel's preferred, but some people just sand 'em down)</li>
<li>Lightly sand rail to assure that bungs are level with the rail and the teak color is as uniform as you can get it. </li>
<li>Remove all sawdust with a vacuum.</li>
<li>Tape all area you do not want varnish or paint on.</li>
<li>Remove any remaining sawdust with a tack rag. </li>
<li>Add finish of your choice (paint or varnish).</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu34O7nAlhCMxxpVe7JpiOKGsurdXJUf_1jJOCKKJxjGKH-o7GtJ60XPn3D8ZWcGe2PuYUlWXwJLhNA4ui6CT64oLH0pd2cfzBs5P8q5sNPBaC9Hpo3myezqsBFF1-mLF8xdaVGHx3ENw/s1600/2016-01-30+17.39.50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu34O7nAlhCMxxpVe7JpiOKGsurdXJUf_1jJOCKKJxjGKH-o7GtJ60XPn3D8ZWcGe2PuYUlWXwJLhNA4ui6CT64oLH0pd2cfzBs5P8q5sNPBaC9Hpo3myezqsBFF1-mLF8xdaVGHx3ENw/s200/2016-01-30+17.39.50.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old wood. Bare wood</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7n2LHLfkrHtxn6tBw83droyqAoI9Qk1wFrU9n85nsKOSznkK6iSu963TBSqNNcvsYq2Q_3qMB-U9sLVEAyeU5zbx-vcG0blJLs64ISB_v-OPp9Pu_o7KURc_TqsV5SUVPb72Icqv0zvg/s1600/2016-04-19+15.21.41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7n2LHLfkrHtxn6tBw83droyqAoI9Qk1wFrU9n85nsKOSznkK6iSu963TBSqNNcvsYq2Q_3qMB-U9sLVEAyeU5zbx-vcG0blJLs64ISB_v-OPp9Pu_o7KURc_TqsV5SUVPb72Icqv0zvg/s200/2016-04-19+15.21.41.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port side Toerail looking aft</td></tr>
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What is interesting about this process is how long it takes. Just the process of taking this trim off and getting back to bare wood was probably 15 hours (they are long pieces, after all, and were in poor condition aesthetically). <br />
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Once you're back to bare wood and you have fitted the trim back on, you still need to caulk it in place, fasten it, and bung it and do all the other prep work to get it ready to paint or varnish.<br />
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Moreover, even giving it a covering will add a couple of days to the job. Any paint - and certainly varnish - should be given some time to set up before you prep and paint a second (or third) coat. The trim on <i>Adagio </i>is being finished bright - but not with varnish. To keep consistent with the other deck trim I am using Cetol Natural Teak. I have had good luck with this product - it holds up well and is easy to maintain. After 3 coats, I top it with a gloss coat (optional) and it is as close to varnish as never mind.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzaYqGIgbAITCmOI-uRcvO0r7fqPyxy-U6kXpJq3UwncT09WaKXiW2xiJdVw3_kezphALm_lv5qfLSJ0GJ-kvlGj9baMxC3wVLP4up_ILU83APNjubXUYEsrpXyA8aLdcf0kmh_cwNTA/s1600/2016-04-21+13.52.19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzaYqGIgbAITCmOI-uRcvO0r7fqPyxy-U6kXpJq3UwncT09WaKXiW2xiJdVw3_kezphALm_lv5qfLSJ0GJ-kvlGj9baMxC3wVLP4up_ILU83APNjubXUYEsrpXyA8aLdcf0kmh_cwNTA/s200/2016-04-21+13.52.19.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port side all bunged up!</td></tr>
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However, the real point is, this project has given me a profound understanding of why boatyard bills are what they are. Had I given this to the yard to do, I might have been indignant by an exorbitant bill for what is, conceptually, an uncomplicated job. Strip It. Sand It. Paint It. How hard is that? A chimpanzee can probably do it.<br />
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However, all told, <u>this</u> chimp is probably into about 30 hours on this trim.</div>
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So, when next you get your boatyard bill and see "Reconditioning Brightwork 15 hours @ $75 / hour," just shut up and pay it. It is a bargain at twice the price. </div>
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-19268964899033295072016-02-23T18:00:00.000-08:002016-02-23T18:00:01.524-08:00On a Barge in France<br />
What do you do when your retirement dream is to sail around the world and your spouse's ideal is have an apartment in London or Europe?<br />
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The obvious answer, of course, is to buy a 1926 steel Dutch canal barge and ply the canals of France.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO6iTmJYrzQAhXMI6MIqTvlZXgl7B97Fdo0LtE0q406O6G_SvpV0aowf6eUiT7Tuvv21VunRBWXz-fYItkLNYB7LVv_sgKKa-au_6qp2sARTOrewh27Ulif53jZkLkqQ3vo3tZ6ob52gA/s1600/Hoop+Doet+Leven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="124" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO6iTmJYrzQAhXMI6MIqTvlZXgl7B97Fdo0LtE0q406O6G_SvpV0aowf6eUiT7Tuvv21VunRBWXz-fYItkLNYB7LVv_sgKKa-au_6qp2sARTOrewh27Ulif53jZkLkqQ3vo3tZ6ob52gA/s320/Hoop+Doet+Leven.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoop Doet Leven</td></tr>
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<i>Hoop Doet Leven</i>, which means "Hope Sustains Life," has been the summer home of Harvey Schwartz and Sandra Hamilton for the last four years.<br />
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Harvey is a retired civil rights attorney from Boston, a wooden boat guy and shares my penchant for all watercraft. He has cruised the New England coast for years and, a few years ago sailed a catamaran to the Bahamas. However, he has given up his caulking hammer for an angle grinder and now calls this 70' barge home.<br />
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His wife, Sandra, has immersed herself in the French language and culture and serves as bow crew and primary interpreter.<br />
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The great part about their retirement for us is we can share their experiences vicariously through Harvey's blog (<a href="https://onabargeinfrance.com/">https://onabargeinfrance.com/</a>). However, he has taken the best experiences and put them in a book entitled (oddly enough) "On a Barge in France." You can buy it on Amazon (<a href="http://www.amazon.com/barge-France-Harvey-Schwartz-ebook/dp/B01AV0OYKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1456278119&sr=1-1&keywords=on+a+barge+in+france">http://www.amazon.com/barge-France-Harvey-Schwartz-ebook/dp/B01AV0OYKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1456278119&sr=1-1&keywords=on+a+barge+in+france</a>) and I really think you should.<br />
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In the interest of full disclosure, I should mention that Harvey is a friend, but that is not the only reason I recommend this read. Harvey has an engaging style of writing that combines the history of the places they visit with a fair dollop of experiencing a different culture and way of life. There is much to take from Harvey and Sandra's adventures.<br />
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The nub of it is that, usually, our vacations are of the 1-2 week variety and, while you may have a great time, you can never say you really got to <i>know </i> the people or the land or why they are who they are. Harvey and Sandra are doing just that - and that makes all the difference.<br />
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This is a great read whether you are a boater, a traveler - or even an armchair adventurer.<br />
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<br />Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-83663978898890924902015-08-26T14:24:00.000-07:002015-08-26T14:24:23.876-07:00To Hull with ItOne of the jobs this summer was to seal the hull below the waterline. As I have mentioned before on these pages, <i>Adagio </i>(ex DESIREE) was on the hard for about 15 years. There were areas such as the rudder and keel that you could see straight through to the other side. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgJtJKYVah93nzTxzDGQgw2VLUyliZs_Ek01oauiv-lcDqGIHwuSzHG7MAgdabITcB4ghPhrf1Wm4sVsKp_dSKF0jesYWvADpVzU2JjOR1tcWsJ8sJNiveAHPsnd6YZrqmqSiC-20XdAs/s1600/2015-04-15+15.52.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgJtJKYVah93nzTxzDGQgw2VLUyliZs_Ek01oauiv-lcDqGIHwuSzHG7MAgdabITcB4ghPhrf1Wm4sVsKp_dSKF0jesYWvADpVzU2JjOR1tcWsJ8sJNiveAHPsnd6YZrqmqSiC-20XdAs/s200/2015-04-15+15.52.21.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking through the Rudder</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rQnLI_N3SoF80jW8-2qTUElloCYtWkk6S4V456WoFcZqzASTlKgcgm5M-WDcAB5CaPAXpmAC63S-yHIx8qc5K6HeV3pFb0Ya4uHVlC6hmHCB5E20tTeoYphuf2MnLhb2MRD2WU5KZQE/s1600/2015-07-31+10.27.27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rQnLI_N3SoF80jW8-2qTUElloCYtWkk6S4V456WoFcZqzASTlKgcgm5M-WDcAB5CaPAXpmAC63S-yHIx8qc5K6HeV3pFb0Ya4uHVlC6hmHCB5E20tTeoYphuf2MnLhb2MRD2WU5KZQE/s200/2015-07-31+10.27.27.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hacksaw blade through Stem</td></tr>
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Now, any wooden boat out of water for a long time will dry out. And there are infinitely worse cases than I have here. In fact, I have been repeatedly amazed that she is still extremely fair given her time out of the water. However, I want the seams to be as good as they can be because when she hits the water, I expect her to drink in the water like a desert bloom.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOwist6UCmKJWw06d2x4CqSAA4TpJ813bU2iU-UHPmvmPHJXcMWCpaxoXT-0ROTK6zaSNIgPjOrIjiLQ697lLySY3iNKcOuxX0hqWXoZJ0gw-1f6-Ph2KEa8Dvsxp2umVBcBStJtV2xQ/s1600/2015-07-31+09.13.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOwist6UCmKJWw06d2x4CqSAA4TpJ813bU2iU-UHPmvmPHJXcMWCpaxoXT-0ROTK6zaSNIgPjOrIjiLQ697lLySY3iNKcOuxX0hqWXoZJ0gw-1f6-Ph2KEa8Dvsxp2umVBcBStJtV2xQ/s200/2015-07-31+09.13.21.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cracked, Brittle and Old Compound</td></tr>
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Earlier inspections concluded that she was not in need of refastening or recaulking, but it was clear that the old seam compound had become hard, <br />
brittle and loose. My concern was that, as she swelled, this old, rock-hard compound would prevent the natural swelling of the cedar planks. So, we endeavored to take out as much of the old compound as we could and replace it with new, malleable seam compound. Not a hard job, but laborious, to be sure.<br />
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Once and awhile, men such as myself are blessed. On this particular occasion, however, the blessing came - as it often does - in the form of my wife, who, actually enjoys sitting under the boat and reefing out all this old compound. Now to be clear, she also enjoys peeling sunburnt skin off of others, so maybe this isn't so surprising, but imagine . . . a wife who enjoyed such a task. Whatever conclusions you draw from this are your own business, but to cynics such as myself it may go a long way in explaining whatever she saw in me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMc3B0MVmEw1MeQ48AichfRUOVEXnlMTVc84U5vducWsXSgQSTN1p5XdNsMZpjmytL3slscxO2xTrDrmo-zZL8ijwjjEYkTFq1fqM1Y8KbnDaz-6q47sp_lxloH63J5oIyx1dHAK7tq2c/s1600/2015-08-01+15.06.09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMc3B0MVmEw1MeQ48AichfRUOVEXnlMTVc84U5vducWsXSgQSTN1p5XdNsMZpjmytL3slscxO2xTrDrmo-zZL8ijwjjEYkTFq1fqM1Y8KbnDaz-6q47sp_lxloH63J5oIyx1dHAK7tq2c/s200/2015-08-01+15.06.09.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiger Sloop</td></tr>
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So, out with the old and in with the new. We reefed out the old compound and primed the seams with red lead primer.<br />
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After that, I added in new compound. The plan was to use Interlux's brown seam compound made specifically for below the waterline for the seams between the cedar planking. I chose it based on online reviews and my own good fortune with Interlux's palette of paints. For the oak keel I decided to use "Wet Patch," a roofing tar.<br />
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Initially, the seam compound went on OK, but it seemed hard to work with to get into the seams effectively. I solved this by using a mixture of the Interlux seam compound and the Wet Patch. Not only did the Wet Patch make the seam compound <u>much</u> easier to work with, but it extended the life of a can of otherwise expensive seam compound (and Wet Patch is the much less expensive product!)<br />
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When I was trying to decide on the best way to do this, I asked around to respected boatbuilders here. I also researched the online forums for wooden boat construction. What I found was that ten people will give you twelve different answers. And then it hit me. People of all abilities have been building wooden boats for centuries. There is no, one "right way" (although there are some materials that are universally panned. e.g "Life Caulk" below the waterline). The point is, you can't go too wrong. If you don't like it, change it next year. The key is to get something in there that will allow the wood to expand as it swells while filling in all the small gaps so that the cotton caulking won't work too hard.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg03xHNd1ONOhB9Gt4VFMhlHjatVdrNUMYR0PvP7mRk3QbV-W-ncSnzPNJ6W0PgOweL0dy3HDu01XG836RAhKUXpByAy0fNybMAqEGF3fOSKRmO4fh0nVjbKn7yAQm2w7OBgaBl1eZOgbE/s1600/2015-08-26+11.13.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg03xHNd1ONOhB9Gt4VFMhlHjatVdrNUMYR0PvP7mRk3QbV-W-ncSnzPNJ6W0PgOweL0dy3HDu01XG836RAhKUXpByAy0fNybMAqEGF3fOSKRmO4fh0nVjbKn7yAQm2w7OBgaBl1eZOgbE/s200/2015-08-26+11.13.42.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">messy seams</td></tr>
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The traditional way to get the compound in the seams is with a putty knife, cleaning the excess up right away with an Acetone soaked rag. If you omit this second step, you will be re-sanding these<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZblpCDrrLtUIiR47d2zTHZiDFyMGf5095NlQmDxEH7W_gWOMO_qop3JvZiQ180irRsR0hAJx22kBovnqNEzpVyrOnoji1OH4zMld1okvHJytwbiLD7_SM6GMAlwdAdnf5UNOKljYPnsg/s1600/2015-08-26+13.41.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZblpCDrrLtUIiR47d2zTHZiDFyMGf5095NlQmDxEH7W_gWOMO_qop3JvZiQ180irRsR0hAJx22kBovnqNEzpVyrOnoji1OH4zMld1okvHJytwbiLD7_SM6GMAlwdAdnf5UNOKljYPnsg/s200/2015-08-26+13.41.01.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Lead primer</td></tr>
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seams to remove the hardened excess and that's just more work than you need. I point this out only because I forgot that step even though I knew better. Not to worry, though. It will be smoothed out and painted over and underwater, so no one sees it or will know about it (except the four people who read this blog).<br />
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Red Lead primer over all and she's ready for a coat of bottom paint next Spring.<br />
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Boats are never "done," and I will be working on this one for a long time. But it is with great satisfaction that I write that the "to do" list is now shorter than the "done" list and I have every expectation of having her in the water next summer. <br />
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<br />Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-15542719624142540562015-04-04T18:28:00.004-07:002015-04-22T16:58:25.331-07:00Name Boards, Trailboards & Just Plain Boreds (with Winter)The last two winters in New England have been beautes! Total snowfall this winter was over 9 feet which set new records around here - five and half feet of it fell in February alone. The good news at the boatyard was that the snowdrifts were so high, no boat was in danger of tipping over in the hellacious wind. At worst, they might heel a bit, but nothing more.<br />
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Well, with winters like that, it's good to have lot's to do in the shop. This was a winter of organizing and doing a lot of little things. Two of those things were, carving a name board and reconditioning the trailboards.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDwfv3DFbXIGr7h-eU5VPAXnfWmB96CvMBjPEh5_e-19WN1thswqLaQkx2wPvBTzp2vjosK7xEd1zf7swTEnkunnEwZpmsGCgFLVubABQ57iVqty3llxywmYo9QIP_6el-DLhjt_fl88k/s1600/2014-11-30+20.47.23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDwfv3DFbXIGr7h-eU5VPAXnfWmB96CvMBjPEh5_e-19WN1thswqLaQkx2wPvBTzp2vjosK7xEd1zf7swTEnkunnEwZpmsGCgFLVubABQ57iVqty3llxywmYo9QIP_6el-DLhjt_fl88k/s1600/2014-11-30+20.47.23.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goofing off at the Drafting Table</td></tr>
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<i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><b>Carving a Name Board</b></span></i><br />
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I took this project on because I wanted to learn to how to do it. To those who have done this, or who do it for a living, what I am about to reveal is not new. For the rest of you, it is Gold: Make sure your tools are honed to a razor's edge. Or, as we say in the New England woods, "make shuwa yah chisels are wickahd shahp. My lesson learned here is that if they are not, it will show up in your work directly.<br />
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So I learned how to sharpen chisels (and planes, scissors etc.) - a useful skill and one I will use repeatedly. There are several very good resources on the web for those interested in learning more about this, so I won't go into it in detail here (although I provide some links below). I will only say that if you want a good job (and why do it otherwise), the tools must be sharp. <br />
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<span style="color: #bf9000;"><b>A PRACTICE PIECE</b></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixXCAcSqrHIotZ_yivAo-tWJBjCta0D-dGEFDVk0ziUsdkdvwHuBGQSIuPR7QmzkVDEn1yCip_w_O1GIv4TaKdjvYtFohA9m3lvHIGikyE1TGRHnRYB4Sa0jIzTpop7tEm3RQVFhDA39o/s1600/2015-01-01+11.25.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixXCAcSqrHIotZ_yivAo-tWJBjCta0D-dGEFDVk0ziUsdkdvwHuBGQSIuPR7QmzkVDEn1yCip_w_O1GIv4TaKdjvYtFohA9m3lvHIGikyE1TGRHnRYB4Sa0jIzTpop7tEm3RQVFhDA39o/s1600/2015-01-01+11.25.31.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Planning the Name</td></tr>
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At any rate, since I didn't know what I was doing, I decided to savage a piece of pine rather than mahogany first time out. From Home Depot then, I got a four foot plank of white pine and started to outline the edges of the board and consider the letter spacing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaBaDcJiMps7wJ7HAG0dqYN20-7ZewmpO5DLPlixz-GRL3NxGd9rX4OJtZ8SPtytgkdf7klsHwJiubBlenTE-1uHiwJvVbcvZg_R5QFEF0Mn12iD5lLiEgQ94FbtagwbyknKsAQzjhS_s/s1600/2015-01-01+11.58.06+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaBaDcJiMps7wJ7HAG0dqYN20-7ZewmpO5DLPlixz-GRL3NxGd9rX4OJtZ8SPtytgkdf7klsHwJiubBlenTE-1uHiwJvVbcvZg_R5QFEF0Mn12iD5lLiEgQ94FbtagwbyknKsAQzjhS_s/s1600/2015-01-01+11.58.06+(1).jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beveled Edges</td></tr>
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The goal here was to focus on the technique of carving the letters and I resolved to keep things pretty simple (no fancy carved scallop shells or mermaids - I will save that for the mahogany). The letters were printed from "Word" and then transferred to poster board to make a template.<br />
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Next, using a small hand-held router, I gave the edges a simple bevel.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcioKItSZnKBiuE51cvHuS-Q6ZWFaatxORMkrhnrJban3rbQAMzXHOkJ0u5zO5RyUn-2YsJypjZCBXtCWE5D5tKlusUTUAgPOYLqIqAnACjh9Y9hr-lQvCzswBIYLCaGal8zkiw_owQsA/s1600/2015-01-01+16.17.24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcioKItSZnKBiuE51cvHuS-Q6ZWFaatxORMkrhnrJban3rbQAMzXHOkJ0u5zO5RyUn-2YsJypjZCBXtCWE5D5tKlusUTUAgPOYLqIqAnACjh9Y9hr-lQvCzswBIYLCaGal8zkiw_owQsA/s1600/2015-01-01+16.17.24.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Name Starts to Appear</td></tr>
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This is where the pine board is savagely attacked by what I thought were sharp chisels. It was here I learned that "sharp" has to mean "really, really sharp - no kidding." But that is why it is a practice piece.<br />
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Oh, one other piece of breaking news: you can't carve through a field of knots on a pine plank and expect it to come out looking good. Your chisels can be sharp enough to split light and it won't be enough. Academically, I knew at least that much, but it was interesting to see it in action.<br />
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There are also a number of videos on carving letters. Again, the techniques vary and you just have to find the one (or ones) that fit your style, but they are instructive to be sure. Once the letters were cut out, I thought, well, what if I just painted this up (it's knotty pine after all)? My original idea for the final product was varnished mahogany with gold lettering, but since this was knotty pine, that wouldn't do.<br />
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So, what would it look like with the traditional gold on black? Even if it never sees the ocean, it might look good hanging in the shop. This, by the way, is how projects take on wings and a mind of their own.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLRYWte8k8PJ2MqEcRDCURHrHzgR3AfW4vExed64IOXsib1yxdjkvdInTb3MrWjsq428G8eeYHlm-jzyDLMRttRx_XgGzEheowMzt9gumgC_FmVfZiP8btqTlH9FYL9W1iqX7NyZnw12g/s1600/Name+Board.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLRYWte8k8PJ2MqEcRDCURHrHzgR3AfW4vExed64IOXsib1yxdjkvdInTb3MrWjsq428G8eeYHlm-jzyDLMRttRx_XgGzEheowMzt9gumgC_FmVfZiP8btqTlH9FYL9W1iqX7NyZnw12g/s1600/Name+Board.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Stong shory lort, after a couple of coats of primer I painted it black and trimmed the edges and letters in gold. The sheen comes from the two coats of varnish I applied over the whole thing when dry. I have to say, I was pleased with the result - it certainly passes the 10 foot rule - and given the size of the punch list still to go, it is quite possible that this savaged piece of Home Deport pine will adorn her stern for this season anyway.<br />
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<i><span style="color: #bf9000; font-size: large;"><b>Trailboards</b></span></i><br />
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<i>Adagio's </i>trailboards were much like the rest of her. Fundamentally sound, but in need of some repair and reconditioning.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_roHx7gDH94YO7gKrv6lRGbHWQn55x1IRArDamYmIv0Aj5CyFme0jNMH1_5OtF0rWts4ljgRup-FQJpI0MRiBvmZ5Ddvzyam__pHTzE-rg_4gAe0HJyqjKdF86xLw3Ao731ufUBkSys/s1600/2014-03-30+18.03.30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_roHx7gDH94YO7gKrv6lRGbHWQn55x1IRArDamYmIv0Aj5CyFme0jNMH1_5OtF0rWts4ljgRup-FQJpI0MRiBvmZ5Ddvzyam__pHTzE-rg_4gAe0HJyqjKdF86xLw3Ao731ufUBkSys/s1600/2014-03-30+18.03.30.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3HeQ1repI_wXl3oOnCZpYyP4vZpLDBvVvmk4qs1jFTrIAUA8LWd_UeRNbxURwyvO9qW_lVvkndHGpU_mPB_h1Wyr8P9vqTb7gqnj0pe2HD0fslUmWcII3P8o7k_e8rIdiA6yu2nq5Hw/s1600/2014-04-08+17.53.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3HeQ1repI_wXl3oOnCZpYyP4vZpLDBvVvmk4qs1jFTrIAUA8LWd_UeRNbxURwyvO9qW_lVvkndHGpU_mPB_h1Wyr8P9vqTb7gqnj0pe2HD0fslUmWcII3P8o7k_e8rIdiA6yu2nq5Hw/s1600/2014-04-08+17.53.52.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a><br />
The port trailboard had a piece missing from the trim - no doubt from an anchor fluke that got away while hauling and took a divot out of the trim.<br />
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So, I shaped a small scarf out of some scrap lumber and fitted it into place. Three clamps, glue and 24 hours later, it is fit to start shaping to the curve of the trailboard. It took awhile to get the taper right, but it was either that or shovel snow, so time was of no consequence.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3c2xQds9nRWYlvx0ZOOWZaBGVzxpd8cLDreN79PoZI4BnWI-vpKqpNbP4Pdywc5UjdsXxvMg0YvV0BNkVXmJBtNAFt9LFcEU-edKs1SHEC6EX9wegW5Tj-7B_aNGJuPs3bGe0q985Zfw/s1600/2014-04-10+18.04.39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3c2xQds9nRWYlvx0ZOOWZaBGVzxpd8cLDreN79PoZI4BnWI-vpKqpNbP4Pdywc5UjdsXxvMg0YvV0BNkVXmJBtNAFt9LFcEU-edKs1SHEC6EX9wegW5Tj-7B_aNGJuPs3bGe0q985Zfw/s1600/2014-04-10+18.04.39.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieMbJX2H1QesD0gVHQ4uDmtSJnRYQyBFSc6yDmYLjAzNgD1Wj8D_v7QXfF45fkqdpxIfekYFsBDmmmge-g2uLH9XXUQ9Dqs4VSS7i03COOcQa5zmkQLLYIzRqnulmImFTq_HfAwWUWVRM/s1600/Trailboard+After.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieMbJX2H1QesD0gVHQ4uDmtSJnRYQyBFSc6yDmYLjAzNgD1Wj8D_v7QXfF45fkqdpxIfekYFsBDmmmge-g2uLH9XXUQ9Dqs4VSS7i03COOcQa5zmkQLLYIzRqnulmImFTq_HfAwWUWVRM/s1600/Trailboard+After.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>On the left, the scarf is fitted and tapered.<br />
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On the right, the finished job (what appears to be a white smudge at the left end of the board is really a reflection from the light). Interlux Sea Green with white trim and gold vine design. Very slick.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #bf9000;">WHEN YOU GIVE A MOUSE A COOKIE . . .</span></b><br />
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When my children were young, they enjoyed a book called "If you give a mouse a cookie." The story went on to describe all the things that will happen after the mouse gets his cookie (he'll want milk, a place to nap, a game to play after his nap and so on). It describes the interconnectedness of things.<br />
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And so it is with boats. In order to do these projects, I needed to re-condition my chisels. This required a shelf for my bench grinder and storage for the various whetstones. To build the shelf required paneling the wall and running wiring to the socket and then, once the chisels were sharp, I needed a chisel rack to keep them handy (BTW, that chisel rack is Sitka Spruce left over from the mast work).<br />
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So, the moral to this story is, don't eat the cookies . . . and keep your chisels sharp.<br />
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<span style="color: #bf9000; font-size: xx-small;">References</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">1. Paul Sellers has a series of very good videos on a variety of chisel and plane related projects and techniques. In this one he takes some fairly inexpensive chisels and makes them worthy: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI</a> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">2. M. Scott Morton of Highland Woodworking uses a slightly different method than Sellers, but does a good job showing the flat of the chisel:<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CADqyYA_e-U">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CADqyYA_e-U</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">3. Harry Bryan is an old Maine boatbuilder and does a series of very good videos for OffCenter Harbor. This site requires a subscription (which anyone interested in classic craft should get) so it might not be available. </span><a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/sharpening-plane-blades-part-1-harry-bryan/" style="font-size: x-small;">http://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/sharpening-plane-blades-part-1-harry-bryan/</a><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">4. Carving Letters: </span><a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/wood-carving-part-2-carving-letters/" style="font-size: x-small;">http://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/wood-carving-part-2-carving-letters/</a>Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-29714343577999954352015-01-22T16:39:00.000-08:002015-01-23T12:49:14.502-08:00Origins of the Compass Rose<div class="content stretched">
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The compass rose has appeared on charts and maps since the 1300's when the portolan charts first made their appearance. The term "rose" comes from the figure's compass points resembling the petals of the well-known flower. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jeslwZhjJ4JKTH1vMd8PVz6aqUL43GoR8Z212j2ubGiPB4qzJ4BAItus9FdLadpFf_MPQSYc39ftmUTmKwtnh63s9hCeig1XvkUJtHp5aEEaA-1da9gGBke7H7T4H-uuLJgtqqTiBcg/s1600/comprose1.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jeslwZhjJ4JKTH1vMd8PVz6aqUL43GoR8Z212j2ubGiPB4qzJ4BAItus9FdLadpFf_MPQSYc39ftmUTmKwtnh63s9hCeig1XvkUJtHp5aEEaA-1da9gGBke7H7T4H-uuLJgtqqTiBcg/s1600/comprose1.gif" height="200" width="191" /></a>Originally, this device was used to indicate the directions of the winds (and it was then known as a <i>wind rose</i>), but the 32 points of the compass rose come from the directions of the eight major winds, the eight half-winds and the sixteen quarter-winds. <br />
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In the Middle Ages, the names of the winds were commonly known throughout the Mediterranean countries as <i>tramontana</i> (N), <i>greco </i>(NE), <i>levante</i> (E), <i>siroco</i> (SE), <i>ostro</i> (S), <i>libeccio</i> (SW), <i>ponente</i> (W) and <i>maestro</i> (NW). On portolan charts you can see the initials of these winds labeled around the edge as T, G, L, S, O, L, P, and M. <br />
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The 32 points are therefore simple bisections of the directions of the four winds (but the Chinese divided the compass into 12 major directions based on the signs of the Zodiac). For western apprentice seamen, one of the first things they had to know were the names of the points. Naming them all off perfectly was known as "boxing the compass."<br />
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There is no absolute standard for drafting a compass rose, and each school of cartographers seems to have developed their own. In the earliest charts, north is indicated by a spearhead above the letter T (for tramontana). This symbol evolved into a fleur-de-lys around the time of Columbus, and was first seen on Portuguese maps. Also in the 14th century, the L (for levante) on the east side of the rose was replaced with a cross, indicating the direction to Paradise (long thought to be in the east), or at least to where Christ was born (in the Levant). <br />
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The colors on the figure are supposedly the result of the need for graphic clarity rather than a mere cartographical whim. On a rolling ship at night by the light of a flickering lamp, these figures had to be clearly visible. Therefore the eight principle points of the compass are usually shown on the compass rose in black which stands out easily. Against this background, the points representing the half-winds are typically colored in blue or green and since the quarter-wind points are the smallest, they are usually colored red. <br />
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© Bill Thoen, 2013 (all rights reserved)<br />
Reprinted with permission<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">References:</span></h2>
<dl class="refs">
<dt><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Cartographical Innovations: an International Handbook of Mapping Terms to 1900</span></dt>
<dd><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> ed. by Helen M. Wallis and Arthur H. Robinson. - Tring, Herts: Map Collector Publications in association with International Cartographic Association, 1987. - ISBN 0-906430-04-6. <i>(This was really quite good, and full of interesting history and details about maps - Bill)</i> </span></dd>
<dt><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Mapping</span></dt>
<dd><span style="font-size: xx-small;">by David Greenhood. - The University of Chicago Press, 1964. ISBN 0-226-30696-8</span></dd></dl>
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-21089293564844697522014-11-24T09:26:00.001-08:002014-12-11T17:28:37.786-08:00 ADAGIO<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Princess, </i>by Joe Richards</td></tr>
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As some may have noticed, I have changed <i>Desiree's </i>name to <i>Adagio.</i></div>
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<i>Adagio</i> is Italian and is most often seen as a musical dynamic instructing the musician to play "slowly, at ease."<br />
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At 17,000 pounds, I am under no illusions that <i>Adagio </i>is a fast sailor, but the iconic image of Joe Richards's <i>Princess</i> has always conveyed the feeling of pleasant ease, the "simply messing about in boats" of which Ratty was so fond.<br />
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"Adagio" is also used in ballet and refers to <i>"slow and refined movements as a single phrase, in a fluid manner - each step linking seamlessly to the next." </i>In fact, the Adagio is often the opening section of the <i>Grand pas de deux </i>where the ballerina performs slow movements with her partner. And so, it fits what I hope is to be.<br />
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This image reminds me of years ago when I owned the catboat, <i>Janou</i> - my first gaff-rigged boat. An old gaffer told me then, "sail her slack. You can't crank her in tight like you do those Marconi rigs." Instinctively, I knew just what he meant. It had that feel of <i>Adagio </i>to me - . sailing her "slack" on a warm summer day with a lazy breeze on the quarter . . . .<br />
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Now, I've sailed enough to know that very few days of our preciously short summers are the lazy, at ease days I describe. My experience is that you're either becalmed or in a tempest that will blow your ears clear overboard. And any gaffer that gets caught with 550 square feet of mainsail flying when the wind pipes up is likely to be singing <i>Santa Merda! (Allegro).</i><br />
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But still, sometimes the name is not the reality, it is the ideal. And so it is with <i>Adagio.</i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simply Messing About in Boats</td></tr>
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-11422188460165159612014-11-23T17:38:00.004-08:002014-11-23T17:38:59.441-08:00Varnish Varnish Varnish<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Bacon and Eggs, Shoes and Socks, Sick and Tired, Wooden Boats and Varnish. Much maligned for maintenance, but always appreciated - on someone else's boat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWkkVGOr0YlYxa4IsmXaEkR7FcEVYn1VjK8t44O6pwSza08ujsoOHkDgB83YsSOAviEdmKxXSVj6O7BPU9Hty-fmYAJ4BNH7gp_IkG9SqstYG3IAc3Vh8vPDfk4h75XISOqMdFE5xZs68/s1600/varnish_for_trawler_brightwork.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWkkVGOr0YlYxa4IsmXaEkR7FcEVYn1VjK8t44O6pwSza08ujsoOHkDgB83YsSOAviEdmKxXSVj6O7BPU9Hty-fmYAJ4BNH7gp_IkG9SqstYG3IAc3Vh8vPDfk4h75XISOqMdFE5xZs68/s1600/varnish_for_trawler_brightwork.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Our obsession with varnish is simple: It looks so good. Never mind it is impractical; never mind that it is fragile; never mind it doesn't protect the wood as well as paint and completely ignore the fact it requires slavish attention to maintenance. The fact is, it is beautiful. Period. Full Stop.<br />
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I admit it. I like it. For me, the look is worthy of the time to maintain. <i>Adagio's </i>builder thought so too as he gave her a generous share of it - above and below deck. Teak rail caps, cabin top handles, hatches, blocks, drawers, sampson post, doors and trim and all the spars are finished bright.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><i>DECK TEAK</i></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main Hatch with Cetol Nat'l Teak</td></tr>
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However, I'm not completely insane - at least not in this regard (I did, after all, buy a wooden boat). I have found that Cetol makes an excellent two-part product, "Cetol Natural Teak" that looks almost as good as varnish (so close that most people can't tell the difference) and stands up to the elements far better than varnish. After three coats of the product you can top it off with a Cetol Natural Teak Gloss, if you are looking for the gloss of varnish. This top coat will give you additional (and stronger) UV protection than most varnishes and you do not have to sand in <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjRAriwlP8sgucXLgEDr5O8SFk9YnanuhFKvb-O1Q2sDuB39vuAqHLiWo25pjH5QJjJSKcml7q0Zn9WpDKbUkaIG5T5KpSfsYWh_7eHouRzaR3e3dtWQzU4cEnvlP5vB1ktt69PdKNgDE/s1600/2014-06-14+09.52.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjRAriwlP8sgucXLgEDr5O8SFk9YnanuhFKvb-O1Q2sDuB39vuAqHLiWo25pjH5QJjJSKcml7q0Zn9WpDKbUkaIG5T5KpSfsYWh_7eHouRzaR3e3dtWQzU4cEnvlP5vB1ktt69PdKNgDE/s1600/2014-06-14+09.52.31.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skylight Hatch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
between coats making the overall job quicker. Last, I have found it to be more forgiving than varnish - keeping you from being "chained to the oars" of your varnish. A maintenance coat of the gloss once a year (or even once every two) keeps it looking good.<br />
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Down below, <i>Adagio </i> will get real varnish as it is away from the elements - or at least it better be.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><i>SPARS</i></span><br />
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For the spars, I am trying something new (at least to me). Originally, these spars were finished bright with varnish. That's just not going to happen on my watch. However, I like the idea of a clear finish as it makes it easier to see what's going on with the wood.<br />
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A boatwright at the yard suggested <i>LeTonkinois </i>(pronounced La'tonk'in'wah)<i>. </i>It is an organic "varnish" made from tung oil and linseed oil and God only knows what else, but it goes on like oil and will build up to a varnish-like finish. Best of all, it is not brittle like varnish, it moves with the wood and touch ups do not require building up the touched up section - it will blend in with the rest of the spar. There is no sanding between coats and it is unaffected by humidity. Again, once you've laid down six coats, a maintenance coat once a year should be all that's needed.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinQ4cKsngRwPuRsrs6vjndBbrsGa6JGA650bJXbQuYv5pZV6o_aNVHmPlNyDgVn3s45nxcdnCb8zO4FPwoaPxOwzY4J-KTMtQxYwZ-Ha14GEvQXlVOD7KoMmbDnf3_js9H0CXuDt7auE4/s1600/2014-07-02+12.40.59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinQ4cKsngRwPuRsrs6vjndBbrsGa6JGA650bJXbQuYv5pZV6o_aNVHmPlNyDgVn3s45nxcdnCb8zO4FPwoaPxOwzY4J-KTMtQxYwZ-Ha14GEvQXlVOD7KoMmbDnf3_js9H0CXuDt7auE4/s1600/2014-07-02+12.40.59.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old dirty varnish on Boom and Gaff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRUq2KozQ2QdNsb8wmn3RaQxRNbvfXrWHiZwWsiDXwYB3gOjuOe6cKR8ZulTaImyIkSDEycD2qiuviO4Zdt3hXNMTwZKFBmUeMXixZNs6Dw-siOvDUXv9oZVTSewRUnwcMY61ZaUtPfn0/s1600/2014-08-16+12.50.33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRUq2KozQ2QdNsb8wmn3RaQxRNbvfXrWHiZwWsiDXwYB3gOjuOe6cKR8ZulTaImyIkSDEycD2qiuviO4Zdt3hXNMTwZKFBmUeMXixZNs6Dw-siOvDUXv9oZVTSewRUnwcMY61ZaUtPfn0/s1600/2014-08-16+12.50.33.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 Coats of LeTonkinois</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The literature on this product also notes that it is not slippery when wet. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy0aTA1csMNFD0APMKu9YkGUrSF-K9Kc8pwqcppmXxb_ok7eN9NGLcOpFB_ulZQd4ofWydxHjlPbjtRoXz-wk94kksJjeQgEwT8rNAXHRB6Xz6p7Qd1ZEqjCW22oFwdfx9Z5vgTv4JPVA/s1600/2014-09-20+13.51.37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy0aTA1csMNFD0APMKu9YkGUrSF-K9Kc8pwqcppmXxb_ok7eN9NGLcOpFB_ulZQd4ofWydxHjlPbjtRoXz-wk94kksJjeQgEwT8rNAXHRB6Xz6p7Qd1ZEqjCW22oFwdfx9Z5vgTv4JPVA/s1600/2014-09-20+13.51.37.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a> <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0UDEB71CEgcQry-0kweDaHbJOiGUc146xqYBj7UISpH5Xhv_jvMtbKgQhMk-m_W3NFE8VqcSu6TYczFS87k_DIWOp8JUBnakSioJjP4USd940WNe5g9VQAZJ8T5x1Sfg5eG-oBazF2Og/s1600/2014-07-10+16.07.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0UDEB71CEgcQry-0kweDaHbJOiGUc146xqYBj7UISpH5Xhv_jvMtbKgQhMk-m_W3NFE8VqcSu6TYczFS87k_DIWOp8JUBnakSioJjP4USd940WNe5g9VQAZJ8T5x1Sfg5eG-oBazF2Og/s1600/2014-07-10+16.07.36.jpg" height="150" style="cursor: move;" width="200" /></a><br />
So, I have my own test lab going on here:For reasons I'll not bore you with, the bowsprit and the staysail club are varnished (Epiphanes); the mast, gaff, boom and sampson post are finished with LeTonkinois and the deck teak is done in Cetol Natural Teak.<br />
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We will see how each of these perform over time and report back, but for now they are ready for the elements.<br />
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<u><span style="color: #f1c232;"><b><i>Sources:</i></b></span></u><br />
Trevethen, Jim, <u>Wooden Boat Renovation</u>, International Marine, Camden ME,1993Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-72702164425646062292014-10-09T17:36:00.000-07:002014-10-09T17:38:53.643-07:001904 Dictator model <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-DvFrkVH3AgkGwsXRB97TZgJ158_o7niu2SSSssEjqodWxhYmZvVc7NzC9M85G9uPBfRqTIqSLQ-BliCdOkrsi6dvCmlTpxLBwjFtmQHvvR6SO5JREXMMzANq6uM2J__7-VAGlQseYRc/s1600/Muscongus+Bay+Sloop+-+Duncan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-DvFrkVH3AgkGwsXRB97TZgJ158_o7niu2SSSssEjqodWxhYmZvVc7NzC9M85G9uPBfRqTIqSLQ-BliCdOkrsi6dvCmlTpxLBwjFtmQHvvR6SO5JREXMMzANq6uM2J__7-VAGlQseYRc/s1600/Muscongus+Bay+Sloop+-+Duncan.jpg" height="242" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muscongus Bay Sloop - Roger Duncan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Friendship Sloop began as a fishing sloop in the very late 1800's and into the new century before being replaced by the advent of power. In a story reminiscent of today, Maine fishermen found that, to keep their catch volume up, they were moving farther and farther from shore and their open dories were no longer up to the task. The need for a boat that could go farther offshore, provide a stable platform and a small cuddy gave way to the Muscongus Bay sloop and, shortly thereafter, a larger version which became the Friendship.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhopF5Xqq234fygVuvvIjf9vD6BRQjv0wgi4mPrfYqRxOlpTOZ2DPaSN_wpVYLG6NezdLk45sSPo1_UpXa2kgw_FTabRk4SMUtbqKBzIwXapkjJGwwb47Hr_7H1pWxlYQhyphenhyphenrZuvE2xnLsc/s1600/Friendship+Sloop+line+drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhopF5Xqq234fygVuvvIjf9vD6BRQjv0wgi4mPrfYqRxOlpTOZ2DPaSN_wpVYLG6NezdLk45sSPo1_UpXa2kgw_FTabRk4SMUtbqKBzIwXapkjJGwwb47Hr_7H1pWxlYQhyphenhyphenrZuvE2xnLsc/s1600/Friendship+Sloop+line+drawing.jpg" height="181" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendship Sloop</td></tr>
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One unique characteristic of the Friendships is they had many builders - built by the very men who used them to make their living. Fishermen would build a sloop in the winter, fish her during the summer, then sell her and build another the next winter. Thus, there is no one set of hard specifications of what a Friendship must have to be a Friendship. According to the Friendship Sloop Society, these sloops varied in length from 21' to 50' with an average between 30' to 40'. That said, there are some commonalities among them. They all had elliptical sterns and a pronounced counter. This way, nets dropped over the stern did not snag on the quarters or rudder. Additionally, most Friendships had a clipper bow, were gaff rigged and their beam is roughly one third of their length. The mast was equal to the length overall plus one half the draft.<br />
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<i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;">"Success has many Fathers . . . "</span></i><br />
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While Friendships had many fathers, the names of a few builders loom large. Of these, William Morse is probably the most commonly cited because of the sheer number of sloops that came off his ways. It is said that the name Friendship Sloop is due largely to the location of Morse's yard in Friendship, Maine.<br />
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For our purposes, however, the other prominent name in Friendship design is Robert McClain. In <i>The Classic Boat,</i> the editors of Time-Life state: "some marine historians consider [McClain] the originator of the Friendship Sloop." One must be wary of what "some" experts say, but what is clear is that it is unclear exactly <i><u>who</u> </i>is responsible for the design. The truth is, the Friendship was built for function by those that performed that function and refined to reflect the needs of the individual skipper. Ultimately, it's not important if there was (or wasn't) a definite "who." What's important is that there is still intense interest in this design more than 100 years after its introduction because what made it a good work boat, makes it, simply, a good boat.<br />
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While people can argue about who originated the design of the Friendship Sloop, there is no argument that Robert McClain designed and built <i>Dictator.</i> McClain was a shipwright who lived on an island in Muscongus Bay with his wife and son. I have heard the island was Bremen Island, but cannot confirm that. In 1904 he built two vessels - one he kept for himself, the second, <i>Dictator, </i>he sold to lobsterman, Stephen Grey. Over the next 20 years she would be sold to various other fishermen, finally winding up with Dr. Alan Chesney, a summer resident of Deer Isle. The Chesneys owned <i>Dictator </i>for the next 46 years.<br />
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<span style="color: #bf9000; font-size: large;"><i>Jarvis Newman</i></span><br />
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<i>Dictator </i>probably would have been lost to the Friendship world had it not been for Jarvis Newman. Newman, a builder of fiberglass boats in Southwest Harbor, found <i>Dictator</i> forlorn and neglected in Francis Williams's boatyard in Stonington. The portside garboard was missing and she had a significant hole in her starboard bow. Moreover, her decks and ceilings were rotten. Many of us are guilty of boat lust. It is what makes us buy boats and it is what allows us to sell them (because someone else has it too). It seems that Newman had it in spades because he bought <i>Dictator</i> for $1,000 (about $5,800 in 2014).<br />
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The trip from Williams's boatyard in Stonington to Newman's in Southwest Harbor is the kind of story one expects from the <i>Burt and I </i>crowd and it is well told in Time-Life's <i>The Classic Boat.</i> Rather than risk damaging the boat by a bumpy and uncertain overland trip, Newman decided to tow her by water. In November. With holes in her (temporary patches were made and canvas fothered under her bows, but still). To hedge his bets Newman added blocks of styrofoam under her cockpit deck to add buoyancy. She arrived. Just. And Newman hauled her out.<br />
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At this point, Newman brought on Ralph Stanley who had more experience in wooden craft. For anyone interested in the details of the restoration, I recommend the section about <i>Dictator's </i>restoration in <i>The Classic Boat</i>.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGa5k9xg5PJ2XXOmbAMgEH5hyUNgRU0kZTg6eI4NQSinHYRij8Y9DzldoMWt8OTp_bGoFL_fYtnNXfGUgJniDR7UoyFIJBZ3yew2x_PZm3MeYNfvlV96MN0wVZBWz0B_RcxuRK5MlOHuI/s1600/2014-02-27+20.56.32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGa5k9xg5PJ2XXOmbAMgEH5hyUNgRU0kZTg6eI4NQSinHYRij8Y9DzldoMWt8OTp_bGoFL_fYtnNXfGUgJniDR7UoyFIJBZ3yew2x_PZm3MeYNfvlV96MN0wVZBWz0B_RcxuRK5MlOHuI/s1600/2014-02-27+20.56.32.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Dictator, </i>circa 1920</td></tr>
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However, I think it is fair to say that Jarvis Newman not only saved <i>Dictator</i>, the sloop, but <i>created</i> what we commonly think of today when we think of McClain's 1904 Dictator.<br />
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The early pictures of <i>Dictator</i> (of which there are precious few) show an almost flush-decked sloop. One does not see the cabin top with the pronounced arc that is common in the design today. Moreover, the cockpit is separate from the cabin hatchway which was likely more a hold for fish than a cabin.<br />
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Part of Newman's restoration was to create a boat suitable for family sailing which included a livable cabin instead of a fishhold. Additionally, Newman upgraded the materials: Cedar on Oak, Spruce spars, Douglas Fir bowsprit and bronze fittings throughout - including a<i> bronze </i>billethead of an eagle.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxG1Q1zujGtgvIj1LFnAX6VSxFLLqerRKj3QFefA5idsEN_4QkHBQar23jU4-0O0vSTLw5n9Xk2frlGCzqsctaWZfxIsHCYfKhK4oLInrtE1EzeOcUgNWbEZBoSv772yYIqFpVwYStCE/s1600/Liberty+-+Billethead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxG1Q1zujGtgvIj1LFnAX6VSxFLLqerRKj3QFefA5idsEN_4QkHBQar23jU4-0O0vSTLw5n9Xk2frlGCzqsctaWZfxIsHCYfKhK4oLInrtE1EzeOcUgNWbEZBoSv772yYIqFpVwYStCE/s1600/Liberty+-+Billethead.jpg" height="149" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bronze billethead on "Liberty"</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: right;">
From his restoration of <i>Dictator, </i>Newman took her lines and created several fiberglass versions of her. In so doing, he "fixed" the specifications for this model of Friendship such that when one talks of a Friendship Sloop of the 1904 Dictator type, the dimensions and accommodations are well known.</div>
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The original <i>Dictator </i>still exists. The Friendship Sloop Society lists her home port as Deer Isle ME and she boasts sail number 2.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCieEz1P-J3Kerv90v4-9nTTkplweJJIy5d6Tfkvpl-Iw-CRkHkb0B_FrX-dkBpZ-_y8EByxU4cwi_utF1rdA311OoIOho6TmgQ46iCwwyqNZegIH5KlqNvmjyNOaDfoZMvhmmYAcS1I/s1600/JNewman+Dictator.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCieEz1P-J3Kerv90v4-9nTTkplweJJIy5d6Tfkvpl-Iw-CRkHkb0B_FrX-dkBpZ-_y8EByxU4cwi_utF1rdA311OoIOho6TmgQ46iCwwyqNZegIH5KlqNvmjyNOaDfoZMvhmmYAcS1I/s1600/JNewman+Dictator.jpg" height="227" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jarvis Newman Dictator model (fiberglass)</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<i>Desiree </i>is patterned on this model. In fact, she is a sister ship to <i>Liberty</i> built by Dick Salter and many of her bronze fittings were from <i>Liberty's</i> castings. As has been the case with Friendships from the beginning, <i>Desiree's </i>builder made some minor modifications to suit his use of the vessel. Specifically, <i>Desiree's </i>accomodations down below differ slightly from both <i>Dictator's </i>and <i>Liberty's</i>, but the length overall, her beam, draft and mast height are all standard <i>Dictator. </i></div>
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<b><span style="color: #bf9000;"><i><u>S<span style="font-size: x-small;">ources:</span></u></i></span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">1.) The Classic Boat, Time-Life Books, 1977 pp.79-100</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">2.) http://www.ralphstanleywoodenboats.com</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">3.) Friendship Sloop Society <a href="http://www.fss.org/">www.fss.org</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">3.) <a href="http://jarvisnewman.us/">jarvisnewman.us</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">4.) <u> Richard Stanley and Wooden Boats: From Legacy to Beyond</u>, Laurie Schreiber</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> <a href="http://www.profilesmaine.com/marine/richard-stanley-and-wooden-boats-from-legacy-to-beyond/">www.profilesmaine.com/marine/richard-stanley-and-wooden-boats-from-legacy-to-beyond</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>5.) Dorothy Elizabeth, Building a Traditional Wooden Schooner, </i>Roger Duncan</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">6.) Friendship Sloops, by Roger Duncan <a href="http://byyb.org/gaffrig/200501/article%20roger%20duncan.htm">http://byyb.org/gaffrig/200501/article%20roger%20duncan.htm</a></span><br />
<br />Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-8222021617696034182014-09-19T06:44:00.000-07:002014-09-26T05:03:53.525-07:00Reconstructing the Bow<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh169cKB35EFZUt2W-m5xuhtamcjKmcLJCeuqF4YX6Y3BEwCr2PcRQ1W6rYP3Lww09O-tno3Os1K6EfpHOzc2CN0WPEBInbGxlzEGPwEhrvK61C74j4l8ruUvPuW38F3lqXjkhP3Npb_qo/s1600/Liberty+-+Billethead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh169cKB35EFZUt2W-m5xuhtamcjKmcLJCeuqF4YX6Y3BEwCr2PcRQ1W6rYP3Lww09O-tno3Os1K6EfpHOzc2CN0WPEBInbGxlzEGPwEhrvK61C74j4l8ruUvPuW38F3lqXjkhP3Npb_qo/s1600/Liberty+-+Billethead.jpg" height="149" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gammon Knee is under sprit</td></tr>
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In an earlier post (Cabin Top Reconstruction), I noted that I had removed the gammon knee. The gammon knee is located right under the bowsprit and is what gives the Friendships the clipper-like bow.<br />
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The term "gammon" originally referred to lashings which secured the bowsprit to the stem head. In ships of yore, the lashings were made fast to the stem by means of a shackle (gammon shackle) that was secured to iron plate bolted to the stem (gammon plate). In later derivations, the gammon knee was used to secure these lashings around the bowsprit. The gammon knee is through-bolted to the stem.<br />
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On Friendships, the gammon knee is entirely ornamental - supporting nothing but the billet head (aka figurehead) and the trailboards. The bowsprit on a Friendship is secured by the opposing forces of the fore, bob and whisker stays and the samson post.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOyBCp070xbBxMzGZ490z7t4wUwlOCe3BK0MQL43KUP2KxA74bbr-SErR81vqdItn_hlmT0XiYJKCaoxyQPnaO069MLpjxul4P-fOze0MThnlhI_JVCBtaFRXh6hpReY868U8bABG4tyc/s1600/2014-06-23+17.56.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOyBCp070xbBxMzGZ490z7t4wUwlOCe3BK0MQL43KUP2KxA74bbr-SErR81vqdItn_hlmT0XiYJKCaoxyQPnaO069MLpjxul4P-fOze0MThnlhI_JVCBtaFRXh6hpReY868U8bABG4tyc/s1600/2014-06-23+17.56.35.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note delamination under chock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguBRO3JHScQZyqSDnPOtvGySOsDr7_Dyw6Jxg5P3JT1cnEAK6y3Z41iT4aLsOnKdxtY09PBHO6ucFRff1EW17ncuBXnAZBZTUQKDESp42lol5aCrssNQc78mOTAMGf2_Hr0dUbLpdwTuU/s1600/2014-06-23+17.56.45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguBRO3JHScQZyqSDnPOtvGySOsDr7_Dyw6Jxg5P3JT1cnEAK6y3Z41iT4aLsOnKdxtY09PBHO6ucFRff1EW17ncuBXnAZBZTUQKDESp42lol5aCrssNQc78mOTAMGf2_Hr0dUbLpdwTuU/s1600/2014-06-23+17.56.45.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starboard side</td></tr>
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The reason for removing the knee was because of (more) delamination of fiberglass. As mentioned earlier, <i>Desiree's</i> cabin and deck were sheathed in fiberglass, but it appears to have been done with polyester resin, which, I've been told, does not create as lasting a bond as epoxy resin. At any rate, it came away from the knight heads under the forward chocks and separated from the deck on the port side. If you click on these photos, you'll see it better. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7u4G5OlONJK7YKghBzSGh1vEth9qIJGYMoM0V7QFhaagT73dPygMvWV_neAul3LI3sc2e_e8ETL-uUfiFfZCWfyAqKyeWSFCZcx4Y_kJOLhHxBKFk71U6-PXThPy7qyGLTUsZbD5rl1A/s1600/2014-06-23+18.29.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7u4G5OlONJK7YKghBzSGh1vEth9qIJGYMoM0V7QFhaagT73dPygMvWV_neAul3LI3sc2e_e8ETL-uUfiFfZCWfyAqKyeWSFCZcx4Y_kJOLhHxBKFk71U6-PXThPy7qyGLTUsZbD5rl1A/s1600/2014-06-23+18.29.46.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stem & Gammon Knee</td></tr>
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It was also obvious that the stemhead had been abused by the elements over the years. As the stemhead is the end of a large oak member, it's end grain was open to the rain, snow and whatever. Thus, moisture moved down the stem creating some rot. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHWu2hKLJgu9rkQEdJxf4BZvepQZUNrwH4pCJO8cXpj_KqWYfeU7-nnjNevz3OFbk-v8qkYOYD1WjlKRxpqF8vXCAFELlExt__eFDsYRafVMoRnpCLyqJJDgfmFV8HsJ6VIiyk4TyANow/s1600/2014-06-25+08.23.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHWu2hKLJgu9rkQEdJxf4BZvepQZUNrwH4pCJO8cXpj_KqWYfeU7-nnjNevz3OFbk-v8qkYOYD1WjlKRxpqF8vXCAFELlExt__eFDsYRafVMoRnpCLyqJJDgfmFV8HsJ6VIiyk4TyANow/s1600/2014-06-25+08.23.31.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Fortunately, even though water moved down the stem, it created it's own path out. In the photo to the left, you see what appear to be two cracks in the stem. The left "crack" is where the gammon knee is separating from the stem due to rot in the top of the stem (there is a lag bolt that secures the top of the knee and as the top of the stem rotted, it has given way). </div>
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The crack on the right side of the stem (and lower) is, indeed a crack and seems to have shunted water out of the stem. This was extremely fortunate as it limited the water damage to the upper section of the stem. This allowed us to scarf in a new section of the stem rather than a whole stem replacement. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmDxF4Ivs-Rv1e0xkQjNUbclxCLMjh61ZWfcNFuh_7VTwPTqNb0FX4NPCBFosrKUDf9gb6XUaMKW22k02yhjPa1tE1Ajc1ZVKJOrRBfwU3ZiHcc8ZfeY3NyiZ77daml6RHxjg6GQHJzsw/s1600/2014-06-28+13.58.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmDxF4Ivs-Rv1e0xkQjNUbclxCLMjh61ZWfcNFuh_7VTwPTqNb0FX4NPCBFosrKUDf9gb6XUaMKW22k02yhjPa1tE1Ajc1ZVKJOrRBfwU3ZiHcc8ZfeY3NyiZ77daml6RHxjg6GQHJzsw/s1600/2014-06-28+13.58.21.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rot in the knighthead</td></tr>
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So, the only thing to do at this point was to start cutting away the delaminated glass back to good glass and see what we've got. </div>
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Here's what we found. Underneath the rail cap on the starboard side, there was a significant seam of rot in the knighthead on the starboard side. It was clear that it went below deck level and I had visions of finally finding the one thing that would make this a very long and expensive renovation. The real question now was, how far down does it go?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ciGbUxfIDH5PToY3ufFdlMOpA1vUt_R5OOsFaDllBdPlPXn6_3cNug5jIi8B3CRa6IYgdrFpok7AIDfoV2Yf3SepCuw70HFz0h-Gc08xgXwjhb4d8FlD0KWHFDmaPHB2TI3sNhXoBhI/s1600/2014-06-30+13.21.11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ciGbUxfIDH5PToY3ufFdlMOpA1vUt_R5OOsFaDllBdPlPXn6_3cNug5jIi8B3CRa6IYgdrFpok7AIDfoV2Yf3SepCuw70HFz0h-Gc08xgXwjhb4d8FlD0KWHFDmaPHB2TI3sNhXoBhI/s1600/2014-06-30+13.21.11.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moisture under top deck layer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_HH840EgoCh0lfRi3RtZt5lfaMNC7_LsJi7IU-P552dY2RXauR1ctrgSGVox5qeC8gkTVj6V1Mas23sv7DJ3rmKOW5riwmPUIRewtD9x-FSHB5RzztPeHCW-ryE8LtVQbeOuU2h9H28/s1600/2014-06-28+14.22.30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_HH840EgoCh0lfRi3RtZt5lfaMNC7_LsJi7IU-P552dY2RXauR1ctrgSGVox5qeC8gkTVj6V1Mas23sv7DJ3rmKOW5riwmPUIRewtD9x-FSHB5RzztPeHCW-ryE8LtVQbeOuU2h9H28/s1600/2014-06-28+14.22.30.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fiberglass peels right off</td></tr>
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So, there was nothing else for it but to pull up the fiberglass and the deck underneath (note how the 'glass came up in one nice big sheet. Never use polyester resin is the lesson, I guess). After removing the first layer of decking (there are two layers of plywood), it was obvious there was moisture. </div>
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What amazes me is this boat has been under cover since December of last year and water that seeped in <u>before then</u> is still there! The storal to the morey here is, once moisture gets in, it sits there until it causes rot. </div>
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These two shots show the bow with a section of the deck gone and breasthook removed. The photo on the left shows that the rot on the starboard side only goes down to just below the top of the breasthook. The photo on the right shows the port side which looks pretty good. The through bolt in the picture comes through the stem and secures the breasthhook. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvj9y9-NtD_ihBwzWFgHhyphenhyphenswrOxUpE6uuEYGVcMgGF36QvdYJmExPpLMxHQb-HQcgcDGeNJiydvXu0PthvNFfF3pb-_7FMv0WvvIIqgJNAFJoLDBIBgetC8uTwboc5rRI1XA6XZ_WmajU/s1600/2014-07-02+15.01.55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvj9y9-NtD_ihBwzWFgHhyphenhyphenswrOxUpE6uuEYGVcMgGF36QvdYJmExPpLMxHQb-HQcgcDGeNJiydvXu0PthvNFfF3pb-_7FMv0WvvIIqgJNAFJoLDBIBgetC8uTwboc5rRI1XA6XZ_WmajU/s1600/2014-07-02+15.01.55.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAcrbvH4A94La2j_U2aW7Oo144zJguGcyPiKRj67Xb9lzWTCu9k1RUSNMG8KoQtuw4GMsPQ1G7yt9uQWVagF5RmMymFMO4tJ_v9bp95-pXWpYR9f7VtpsFVWJt2U0StWpX28Amcp39ZxI/s1600/2014-07-02+15.02.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAcrbvH4A94La2j_U2aW7Oo144zJguGcyPiKRj67Xb9lzWTCu9k1RUSNMG8KoQtuw4GMsPQ1G7yt9uQWVagF5RmMymFMO4tJ_v9bp95-pXWpYR9f7VtpsFVWJt2U0StWpX28Amcp39ZxI/s1600/2014-07-02+15.02.01.jpg" height="150" style="cursor: move;" width="200" /></a></div>
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As a minor note, the gammon knee is affixed to the stem with three screws, a long bolt going through the knee and stem and exiting inside the bow, and a lag bolt on top (starting at the stem and going outward toward the knee). The through bolt caused some concern because you cannot get at it from inside the vessel unless you remove the samson post (not for the faint of heart or weak of will, trust me on that). So, the fact I had to remove some decking was a help as the end of the through bolt is accessible just below the framing in the picture. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbXRGIDpfgQTERz0I6LJZZQudwckJnOtM0Nt0Jt0wx2LgGSjsxzkfAjlBclH6u5nqGJiiXRPC8YBpsKbWIB9pvCuBRGYKbHjZcKyH0ftkKIAcVSjzvmjxqAhK2ha686VrGQDAN9wm750I/s1600/2014-07-24+15.57.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbXRGIDpfgQTERz0I6LJZZQudwckJnOtM0Nt0Jt0wx2LgGSjsxzkfAjlBclH6u5nqGJiiXRPC8YBpsKbWIB9pvCuBRGYKbHjZcKyH0ftkKIAcVSjzvmjxqAhK2ha686VrGQDAN9wm750I/s1600/2014-07-24+15.57.07.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a>So, we decided to cut the top of the knightheads off just below deck level and extend the breast hook and new decking out to the edge. </div>
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Like So.</div>
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To finish it off, I will use another block of wood to act as a backing block to the railcap and the chocks on it. I will cut back some more of the fiberglass deck, fair the edge and lay down new glass. Fair it, paint it, re do the non-skid areas, etc. </div>
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<b><i><span style="color: orange; font-size: large;">Back to the Stem</span></i></b></div>
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Before we did all that, though, we scarfed in a new piece of the stem. I say "we" because I am indebted to Aaron Snyder, who is a shipwright currently engaged at our yard (although I did pay him, so I can't be that indebted. Anyway, he does good work). He did in 15 hours what it would have easily taken me ten times as long.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK9u2IsHrQ1i2BRmXoCpBNT8h89QMYEBXxC81rFXCNlI70LY_Kmhgiui3lVX20rpH3aMdxkeUamGxacvr1dHZs93NKt__THBY_OpC8YHFr7NHk7IrB-_oqE-kXY2WINJlJzx6uvIckgq4/s1600/2014071595115252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK9u2IsHrQ1i2BRmXoCpBNT8h89QMYEBXxC81rFXCNlI70LY_Kmhgiui3lVX20rpH3aMdxkeUamGxacvr1dHZs93NKt__THBY_OpC8YHFr7NHk7IrB-_oqE-kXY2WINJlJzx6uvIckgq4/s1600/2014071595115252.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mock up of stem scarf</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqX3Or_HVVHbH1ngY-9NcTJT0CRJ1zE2WUxXpH9Ay45yOMoOmChMDWXgM171m5Y_6yTKNoyRpMqsODO45aVl-pphQQsxkNLiMvnnp3CjFzif1JD3orHT2m4UxSNbo8WUObkHLSr8uEvxM/s1600/2014-07-24+16.05.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqX3Or_HVVHbH1ngY-9NcTJT0CRJ1zE2WUxXpH9Ay45yOMoOmChMDWXgM171m5Y_6yTKNoyRpMqsODO45aVl-pphQQsxkNLiMvnnp3CjFzif1JD3orHT2m4UxSNbo8WUObkHLSr8uEvxM/s1600/2014-07-24+16.05.01.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished job</td></tr>
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I also make a point about writing that the stem was redone <u style="font-style: italic;">before</u> the deck was replaced. This was important for a number of reasons but only one was paramount. Because the through bolt for the gammon knee goes through the knee and the stem <i>and </i>you cannot reach the nut to secure if from down below, we had to leave the deck off until that operation was complete.<br />
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With the bow and the cabin top 95% complete, the only other major structural part of this project is the mast. For that, see my post <i>Critters in the Mast. </i>This leaves me with an extremely long list of cosmetic items, but cosmetic items are not hard, just time consuming. . . .<br />
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<span style="color: orange; font-size: x-small;"><b><i>SOURCES:</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">1. Encyclopedia of Nautical Terms</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">2. Nautical Dictionary, by Arthur Young & James Brisbane, Published 1863 Longman, Roberts & Green, London</span></div>
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-74702568747569421602014-08-27T17:45:00.001-07:002014-09-19T06:38:46.853-07:00The Friendship Sloop Burgee<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><i><span style="color: #ffd966;">ORIGIN OF THE DESIGN</span></i></b></div>
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Anyone familiar with Friendship Sloops is familiar with its burgee However, less familiar is why it is adorned with what appears to be a vine of spade-like leaves - an odd symbol for a fishing sloop. So, I wanted to know <i>why</i> the burgee sported this particular design, what leaf it was and why that leaf? </div>
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What I found out was interesting: No one knows. </div>
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There is nothing about the origin of the burgee in any of the Society's publications: <i>It's a Friendship, Enduring Friendships, </i>and the most recent publication <i>Lasting Friendships.</i></div>
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Here's what we <u>do</u> know: The Constitution of the Friendship Sloop Society (FSS) dictates: "The burgee of the Society shall be a pennant with the fly one an one-half times the hoist, consisting of a black leaf design on a white field with a red boarder." (Article VIII).</div>
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The Society's annual yearbook for 1967 comes a bit closer to the mark:</div>
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<i>The leaf pattern on the pennant is derived from the original trailboards of the Friendship Sloops. So far as we can discover, all the Morse, McClains, Carters and other original builders, and even the present day builders have used this vine design on their trailboards . . . .</i></blockquote>
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Carvings of vines or scrollwork on trailboards make sense. A trailboard is long and thin and lends itself to that sort of design. However, arabesques of vines on trailboards are not new - they predate Friendship Sloops by at least a century.<br />
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In his book <i>Figureheads and Ship Carving,</i> Michael Stammers writes,<br />
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<i>[From the 1790's] the trailboards . . .took on an important role. It began carrying more carvings from the base of the figurehead to the main parts of the hull. This had the pleasing effect of visually integrating the figurehead with the rest of the hull. The usual motif was some kind of foliage such as laurels as a symbol of victory, oak leaves as a symbol of strength, acanthus and thistle as symbols of life, mortality and punishment or vine leaves with symbols of grapes as symbols of plenty. These leaf forms were frequently carved in Rococo style with C and S shapes, diverging leaves and elongated stems.</i></blockquote>
It is no secret that the clipper bow of the Friendship was patterned after the Gloucester fishing schooners that patterned <i>their</i> bows after clipper ships, etc. It follows then, that the makers of Friendships were simply adorning their trailboards with a design as had been done for years.<br />
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<b><i><span style="color: #f1c232;">BUT A DESIGN OF WHAT?</span></i></b></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDM49cx_WxrCQPtaHjCrc3q_fuPvK2bFMQXrKti59JWiyl8UQCLRDu40CfLuD4BZZXKeJVA1zKUf9V9dPOwaMg6vZtL1lu9fMHeU4nw9KSFRQ5HL9z1t-la12OZnI7h84amNxxdDh_Go/s1600/grape_leaf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDM49cx_WxrCQPtaHjCrc3q_fuPvK2bFMQXrKti59JWiyl8UQCLRDu40CfLuD4BZZXKeJVA1zKUf9V9dPOwaMg6vZtL1lu9fMHeU4nw9KSFRQ5HL9z1t-la12OZnI7h84amNxxdDh_Go/s1600/grape_leaf.jpg" height="173" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Grape Leaf<br />
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Here is where the 1967 FSS yearbook fails us. Regarding the type of leaf/vine it notes: "[M]uch research has not turned up the reason for the vine. Our delving into the use of this particular pattern has only served to produce a discussion as to whether this is a vine or grape leaf design, but nothing as to the origin."<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Olive Leaf</td></tr>
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In Roger Duncan's book, <i>Friendship Sloops, </i>he writes: "[E]arly in the [Friendship Sloop] Society's existence, a burgee was designed and distributed among members. It is a white pennant with a red border on <i>which in black is the traditional olive leaf design</i> used on the trail boards of Morse boats." (emphasis added)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Cherry Blossom<br />
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Last, in <i>The Classic Boat</i>, the editors at Time-Life chronicled the restoration of <i>Dictator</i> (see earlier post <i>1904 Dictator Model, </i>2/28/14). In it, they noted that, "the trailboards were carved by the wife of the builder, Robert McClain, their design an arabesque of red cherries, [which] was his trademark."<br />
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So, Olives? Grapes? or Cherries? Which is it? That answer lies deep in still waters and is likely to remain there. However, the notion that there ever was an answer doesn't bear up when one considers the origin of the sloop and the conventions of the day.<br />
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First, with the exception of the Dictator model, this is not a one class design. There never was a defined set of specs for what makes a Friendship a Friendship. If the original builders didn't try to agree on overall dimensions and specs, it strains credibility that they would agree that all Friendships "shall have a vine of grapes (or whatever) adorning their trailboards." Second, these were fishing boats - not a lot of mucking about with ornate scroll work. Build 'em, Splash 'em, Fish 'em, Sell 'em.<br />
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It seems more likely that each builder did what they wanted to do - or maybe had their own signature design as Time-Life suggests of McClain.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Trailboard Design - <i>Desiree</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Ivy</td></tr>
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What I can write is that the trailboard for <i>Desiree </i>appears to be ivy which, I warily point out, also appears to be the closest match to the burgee . </div>
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And one internet source had this to say about the meaning of ivy:<br />
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<i>The Celtic meaning of the ivy deals with connections and friendships because of its propensity to interweave in growth. Ever furrowing and intertwining, the ivy is an example of the twists and turns our friendships take - but also a testimony to the long-lasting connections and bonds we form with our friends that last over the years. </i><br />
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Hmmmm, "Lasting Friendships." What a good name for a book.<br />
Buy yours today from fss.org</div>
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<span style="font-family: Lucida Sans Unicode, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: x-small;"><b><i>Notes:</i></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">1. </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"> I am indebted to John Wojcik of the FSS for hunting down the references to the origin of the burgee design in the FSS publications. </span></div>
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<i style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: small;">2. Lasting Friendships: A Century of Friendship Sloops, </i><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;">TBR Walsh & Ralph Stanley, Friendship Sloop Society (2014)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">3. <i>Friendship Sloops, </i>Roger Duncan, International Marine (1985)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">4. <i>It's a Friendship</i>, Herald Jones, Friendship Sloop Society (1965)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">5. <i>Friendship Sloop Society Annual Yearbook</i>, Friendship Sloop Society (1967)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">6. <i>Figureheads and Ship Carvings</i>, Michael Stammers, Naval Institute Press (2005)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">7. <i>The Classic Boat, </i>Time-Life (1977)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">8. www.celticradio.net</span></div>
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-16918094839103841702014-08-17T18:11:00.000-07:002014-08-18T16:22:49.474-07:00Critters in the Mast - Plan DIn my last post, I noted that Plans A thru C to remove acorns, fur and other stuff from my critter-condo mast failed. Plan D was the "nuclear option," namely to remove select staves of the mast. This provided access to the detritus as well as gave room to remove the wiring that was threaded up through the middle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheOjtoeVEkzIWsdLMirBHSpFhZQk9z7u86tT7bzsecgNOrQbU6A2lYTeJ6MbNhtZyE-DUwL7bHzxExDYGdxPCeCblBqagrwPebd1sVZl7yybbuIGFK01s40y0zfOj52eyHlZ3f1wCBkQQ/s1600/2014-08-17+18.46.24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheOjtoeVEkzIWsdLMirBHSpFhZQk9z7u86tT7bzsecgNOrQbU6A2lYTeJ6MbNhtZyE-DUwL7bHzxExDYGdxPCeCblBqagrwPebd1sVZl7yybbuIGFK01s40y0zfOj52eyHlZ3f1wCBkQQ/s1600/2014-08-17+18.46.24.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>Notwithstanding the critters problem, it was clear that we would have to do this in a couple of spots anyway as the wood and seams in places were compromised by age or rot.<br />
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As shown on the plan to the left, the mast is constructed much like a wooden barrel. Trapazoidal sections of Sitka Spruce are glued together along a 37' span (many are scarfed to get the needed length), leaving the middle hollow. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4bl2K_88huvKgc3iX4HVWttQVITygHrlZ8YtjHFAGU86fPKOLBcHDRJl7DWIwZm8I3cotX9zRQL9kRkTOk7ehY_X5ePjGf8mOcT-aViAZgo0THy4QO4fwgwaxbOrRsXkPHn7HU2Vgzuk/s1600/2014-08-14+14.37.33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4bl2K_88huvKgc3iX4HVWttQVITygHrlZ8YtjHFAGU86fPKOLBcHDRJl7DWIwZm8I3cotX9zRQL9kRkTOk7ehY_X5ePjGf8mOcT-aViAZgo0THy4QO4fwgwaxbOrRsXkPHn7HU2Vgzuk/s1600/2014-08-14+14.37.33.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Routing jig</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3JAEMELr5-DM7RZl14MSST94I6AkzYh1GbBiGnHtGNFnB8vHaa54tdy3Sb24ZniBqHRuVi48yvxjKh8xmkgClAfjB_sLiHYyVDwNG5uRZ7FXl0k1IYcQnQoLyypGH7Gi3eUdR7uSQJgc/s1600/2014-08-15+16.33.20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3JAEMELr5-DM7RZl14MSST94I6AkzYh1GbBiGnHtGNFnB8vHaa54tdy3Sb24ZniBqHRuVi48yvxjKh8xmkgClAfjB_sLiHYyVDwNG5uRZ7FXl0k1IYcQnQoLyypGH7Gi3eUdR7uSQJgc/s1600/2014-08-15+16.33.20.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aaron routing out a stave</td></tr>
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In order to give the router a straight edge on a rounded mast, we set up a jig out of scrap plywood. By using straps to secure it to the mast, it made it easy to line the edge of the jig up with a particular seam. To move to another seam, just loosen the straps and roll the mast over on the saw horses and re-align. The straps were made tight by means of a Spanish Windlass. Simple, quick, easy. </div>
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In all, we routed out 4 sections - each about 7 feet long and each from different places around the mast. Only one stave at a time. We wanted to avoid having the mast spring open like a desert bloom after the rainy season and the way to do this was to make sure each section removed was not near any other removed section. </div>
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And then . . . . more critters !</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSPid-6tpWuE5jB1Gu4xs7xEYQj6mjeU0Y7l3pWgXFZu3sW0PxryzhubwdCoHVloxf4P2XBTMNFmouc-MXpf1R_VisOQNAHyyfKqKdIOhDLRvJQrvLDHYTLUdrEBKeH2dpwwI0GMjx8Cc/s1600/06.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSPid-6tpWuE5jB1Gu4xs7xEYQj6mjeU0Y7l3pWgXFZu3sW0PxryzhubwdCoHVloxf4P2XBTMNFmouc-MXpf1R_VisOQNAHyyfKqKdIOhDLRvJQrvLDHYTLUdrEBKeH2dpwwI0GMjx8Cc/s1600/06.jpeg" height="107" width="200" /></a><b><i><span style="color: orange;">AYE LAD, HERE THAR BE . . . ANTS! AAARRRRGH</span></i></b></div>
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As we were routing out a particularly punky looking section at the top of the mast, we hit a colony of Carpenter Ants. <i>Camponotus Pennsylvanicus</i>. These bastards will chew through wood like green corn goes through the new maid. The nasty little brutes burrow into wood - generally soft woods like pine (or, in this case spruce) or wherever there is rot. They are the devils own spawn to be sure and will cause you to have to rebuild the whole side of your house if you don't catch them early (trust me on that one).<br />
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Anyway, this picture doesn't do it justice; when we first hit the colony, the ants just erupted from the wood like lava. In this section, there was nothing for it but to take out two consecutive staves and we were fortunate that the colony didn't go beyond that.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnxQdaSjnBNZC8SUVYZU5Ix8Uhvn4ha1yvNbrar8lh5EQE6l6x6G_BJUspCJ1SlsNI5y0YZsBg-_s6EOgR3_5ww83iZdEmK5viS7iwqoO02ABvMupJGujNt-uzRlWqL3D591uRu0twC7Y/s1600/2014-08-15+17.23.57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnxQdaSjnBNZC8SUVYZU5Ix8Uhvn4ha1yvNbrar8lh5EQE6l6x6G_BJUspCJ1SlsNI5y0YZsBg-_s6EOgR3_5ww83iZdEmK5viS7iwqoO02ABvMupJGujNt-uzRlWqL3D591uRu0twC7Y/s1600/2014-08-15+17.23.57.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Holy Top Mast </td></tr>
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You hate to do it, but the only thing you can do is cut back to good wood and repair from there. I have two 8 foot, 2 x 6 planks of Sitka Spruce from a local lumber yard and we will use those to create scarfs to fill these sections.<br />
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Also, there are some seams where the epoxy has left some small openings so those will need to be refilled and coated.<br />
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Last, before we close it up tight, I will install two new cables to service the masthead light and other electronics and a new VHF coaxial.<br />
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And more important than all of that, before this is laid up for the winter, I will plug up the ends to dissuade members of the animal world (genus: <i>Painus Intheassus</i>) from infesting my mast.Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-7601930979337698352014-08-09T18:00:00.000-07:002014-08-17T18:50:58.526-07:00Critters in your Mast<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkUhnz1sEUmX-R450wIfwuYg8s5Hw0Xq6SJJN5FNM6kAYUE617ONPxMOatx1I_SrJBbJRdFWgc4zEZNpa-Jf96F9oLJcPiGQhZC_7A39rsa03Bis-vOjGA1H1y2rPVGZmMcIvNrxtEmOI/s1600/chipmunk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkUhnz1sEUmX-R450wIfwuYg8s5Hw0Xq6SJJN5FNM6kAYUE617ONPxMOatx1I_SrJBbJRdFWgc4zEZNpa-Jf96F9oLJcPiGQhZC_7A39rsa03Bis-vOjGA1H1y2rPVGZmMcIvNrxtEmOI/s1600/chipmunk.jpg" height="160" width="200" /></a></div>
<i>Desiree </i>has four very nice spars. The mast, gaff and boom are all Sitka Spruce. The bowsprit is Douglas Fir. The mast is built as a barrel: long staves of spruce around an empty core. Up through the middle, the wires for lights and VHF are threaded.<br />
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These spars sat for 15 years in a back yard. While they were on supports and covered, the holes in the top and bottom of the mast were not. You guessed it. Some critter or critters made there home there.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3jf4jXmYxxZfS1gmzgwuLtG_5ZfklcEVUQG2Iy8L0rBEPvVPFeKRRhCYQg87lG1A8nzETMUpqSeQ9VaF7tVuE4hRrNLjNkuzYLbmVKzQxIoiQxTefJ6K5f_YthL6UaNDRI3zQeDiS9cI/s1600/2014-07-10+16.08.03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3jf4jXmYxxZfS1gmzgwuLtG_5ZfklcEVUQG2Iy8L0rBEPvVPFeKRRhCYQg87lG1A8nzETMUpqSeQ9VaF7tVuE4hRrNLjNkuzYLbmVKzQxIoiQxTefJ6K5f_YthL6UaNDRI3zQeDiS9cI/s1600/2014-07-10+16.08.03.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cracks in upper mast</td></tr>
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I first realized it when we put the mast on some sawhorses to begin it's reconditioning. At that point, my biggest concern was some splitting at a seam at the top of the mast and a small, punky area of wood nearby (see photo at right). However, as I rolled the mast over to check other seams, I could hear acorns and stuff rolling around inside. It sounded like the cage the caller uses to mix up the numbers at a bingo game.<br />
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So, while the cracks still have my undivided attention, I was curious about how much stuff was inside the mast, <i>and</i> how to get it out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP11vepI1dFuCfN4FX-SiQ9YjnW9S9ebLuDAbSd3uJyxfizNandurCp5SzqUjc5SyTMD6OkcKSPL0N07K_t37dpMLM_O8AMZ8GBFNKaudyoQWFvaBZTOz7GYWAxbs0GgiT-1nGbwU7408/s1600/2014-07-23+15.50.13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP11vepI1dFuCfN4FX-SiQ9YjnW9S9ebLuDAbSd3uJyxfizNandurCp5SzqUjc5SyTMD6OkcKSPL0N07K_t37dpMLM_O8AMZ8GBFNKaudyoQWFvaBZTOz7GYWAxbs0GgiT-1nGbwU7408/s1600/2014-07-23+15.50.13.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrew performing a mast enema</td></tr>
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Andrew Haley runs our boat yard and if there's anything about boats he doesn't know, it ain't worth knowing. Our first solution was to hoist the mast on the boom truck and use gravity to drop the acorns out.<br />
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This didn't work.<br />
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Plan B was to snake a batten up the hole and that met with more success, but was limited to the length of the batten which was nowhere near the 36 feet of the mast.<br />
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Plan C was to use a plumbing snake. Again, some success but length was still a problem.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDJWDX4QW7-vvoxX_27ed3QRkTRireGnbmiz2IiFpJuqwLMm7Wxq98mlaNhBe4l8bVB-qkHc-IkNwgmyOdrbwgTTYGsJ_1eE2284Hof8zPh-85QaKL_KmSso069ii0fUKxbHQgb2xn44/s1600/2014-07-23+16.32.39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDJWDX4QW7-vvoxX_27ed3QRkTRireGnbmiz2IiFpJuqwLMm7Wxq98mlaNhBe4l8bVB-qkHc-IkNwgmyOdrbwgTTYGsJ_1eE2284Hof8zPh-85QaKL_KmSso069ii0fUKxbHQgb2xn44/s1600/2014-07-23+16.32.39.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Acorns, fur, rope and other shhh. . . stuff. </td></tr>
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What was amusing was the amount of stuff that came out: acorns, acorn dust, fur, rope and all kinds of detritus. And it kept coming, and coming, and coming.<br />
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When we were done, we had a pile of critter detritus on the ground and still had stuff in the mast.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoYzl1wQqlKL9sH_dmfXbcdnxqOAKcYtlROst-JxlTksJERKnVpEK3TIxu1SRxHm16pEds04NS9rvCx1BygXWTZYnxwvmDFyNWrIMQmtY7yZrtVQjzinJ2T5oJgu0R3TamY9Va69F3Bc8/s1600/2014-07-24+09.40.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoYzl1wQqlKL9sH_dmfXbcdnxqOAKcYtlROst-JxlTksJERKnVpEK3TIxu1SRxHm16pEds04NS9rvCx1BygXWTZYnxwvmDFyNWrIMQmtY7yZrtVQjzinJ2T5oJgu0R3TamY9Va69F3Bc8/s1600/2014-07-24+09.40.26.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Why do critters chew wires? really.</td></tr>
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Some of the seams need attention too so Plan D is probably to remove sections of a stave (or staves) and rout out any more crap in the mast, I will remove the wires as well. I was going to replace the wires anyway, but there is no question now. For reasons that defy logic, critters like to gnaw on wires (see photo) and these appear to have been the central dish at their thanksgiving day feast.<br />
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So, the old lesson learned is to close off any openings when putting boats up for the winter. Failure to do so may result in small, furry stowaways that will <u style="font-style: italic;">always</u> cause problems - the size of which are inversely proportional to the stowaways themselves.<br />
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-47237369710494973762014-07-07T19:14:00.000-07:002014-07-07T19:14:16.815-07:00Cabin Top RestorationEarly on, it was clear that the cabin top of <i>Desiree</i> would need to be replaced (see, <u>Up on the House Top</u> and <u>Separation Anxiety </u>February 5th & 23rd). I have already mentioned the process of removing the old housetop, but have not commented much on the trials and tribulations of the actual replacement. I suppose the reason for this is, it is about as interesting as waxing trees and watching squirrels slip. It is laborious and repetitive. However, if you want a good job, it is worth taking your time through each step. If I have learned anything, it is that while prep work is not sexy, it is what makes or breaks any project. <br />
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So, this post is for you if you are in the process of replacing a cabin top - or something similar. If that is you, all I can say is, you need to get out more. Really. Go.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3Mr48Cr2tnd-0Zx_E4lz6vFpJ6KcNJUMIG7VB6xzZAgPBgRj5gtjeshAHgMAw01-AUpxef_QFtD0qxhCtCbPQ7ENw76rleB-Jfq6ZGdMU3iGXv2P8JyJt6zDo-rKdiwG39wYGUZ8mB4/s1600/2014-02-22+14.40.49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3Mr48Cr2tnd-0Zx_E4lz6vFpJ6KcNJUMIG7VB6xzZAgPBgRj5gtjeshAHgMAw01-AUpxef_QFtD0qxhCtCbPQ7ENw76rleB-Jfq6ZGdMU3iGXv2P8JyJt6zDo-rKdiwG39wYGUZ8mB4/s1600/2014-02-22+14.40.49.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delamination on Port side cabin</td></tr>
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Still with me? Here we go. Once the cabin top was off, other things become obvious. For example, there was some delamination on the sides of the cabin. This was dealt with by grinding away any really bad glass first. Anywhere the glass was solid but not sticking to the cabin sides I filled the gap with epoxy via a syringe. In some places, I drilled holes in the glass to allow a greater reach of the epoxy. Again, a syringe was the thing to get the epoxy in those spots. <br />
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A quick note about using syringes. They're great and very useful. However, as you don your latex gloves and fill your syringe with epoxy, Walter Mitty visits and you can't help but feel like the world's foremost surgeon. In fact, I found myself saying to the boat before I injected the epoxy, " OK, you might feel a little stick and some mild discomfort" (C'mon, admit it. You've done it too.)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwYnUDTtqcbE5Y4SzTAh8FmBBq1ihW6-I685XLHTmAsu21KO_8c6BbcPOzGyEhDBbry7y4q2zWtFI8xoAsXR0c5TUsoQUnIW_t6Qc0RCC7Dyi0m3FCRgulYSEF79KG-GieJiWezSJjFg/s1600/2014-04-06+15.17.25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwYnUDTtqcbE5Y4SzTAh8FmBBq1ihW6-I685XLHTmAsu21KO_8c6BbcPOzGyEhDBbry7y4q2zWtFI8xoAsXR0c5TUsoQUnIW_t6Qc0RCC7Dyi0m3FCRgulYSEF79KG-GieJiWezSJjFg/s1600/2014-04-06+15.17.25.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Revarnished Frames</td></tr>
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The other thing that made sense was to refinish the teak frames before replacing the cabin top. This allowed better access to sand more effectively into corners and edges. It also made the brush work easier.<br />
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Once that was done, I could focus on the cabin top proper. The process called for three layers of 1/4" okoume in the after section and four layers of 1/8" forward.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><i>Cutting and Fitting, Cutting and Fitting (ad nauseum)</i></span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQURjvse0cVqUNLQxoFwuLDBztLvPk0SAp_sC4241_DGXF_0NSmPY5JCmsji6OAeH3UdYBZZy97TArT82-hRYqGys5uW7RnzEe_4j9oaD1Pccm8ItJvWs5i3yzKmRQ7zSzVaaeeIiuPLk/s1600/2014-04-19+15.47.38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQURjvse0cVqUNLQxoFwuLDBztLvPk0SAp_sC4241_DGXF_0NSmPY5JCmsji6OAeH3UdYBZZy97TArT82-hRYqGys5uW7RnzEe_4j9oaD1Pccm8ItJvWs5i3yzKmRQ7zSzVaaeeIiuPLk/s1600/2014-04-19+15.47.38.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forward section clamped in place</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdy53T1A0Z1nZR4B8Icgg5BNcBmGrEb9JTv28SQ6AgMYgCGAcICKxr6OX9cTrxPksTfZB_jhj63oGUxeHFIKMHUmBBpLwEO3CvWKKapgTnSYJr3a9a8MH1mUb8tVoc2luF0Rtfja_3SII/s1600/2014-04-23+10.32.17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdy53T1A0Z1nZR4B8Icgg5BNcBmGrEb9JTv28SQ6AgMYgCGAcICKxr6OX9cTrxPksTfZB_jhj63oGUxeHFIKMHUmBBpLwEO3CvWKKapgTnSYJr3a9a8MH1mUb8tVoc2luF0Rtfja_3SII/s1600/2014-04-23+10.32.17.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Painting underside of first layer</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
As noted, the process is laborious and repetitive. You must cut and fit one layer. Screw it down; Take it up. Paint the underside of the first layer (primer coat and two coats of top coat). Lay it down again. Epoxy over the screw heads. Let it dry. Sand the epoxy fair. Cut and fit a second layer. Screw it down. Take it up. Put a layer of thickened epoxy down. Put the second layer down. Screw it in place - quickly, before the epoxy sets (lesson, use slow cure epoxy). Fill the seams and screw heads with epoxy. Let it dry. Sand it smooth. Cut and fit a third layer. Screw it down . . . you get the idea.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGJ0IkRTI9kfZWSIAxHJeJGEUQuzgTX2seQ_Cc9y7lUTbB1Hi9k84VM9WfXBQRaqqrlKB-2Zyx6zWGRDfkx5c9xbTCnktKP4BLwgTSKLpHeGDXfKVHFHnbYGenN0iTT0wVd1N7eICITxQ/s1600/2014-04-22+13.38.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGJ0IkRTI9kfZWSIAxHJeJGEUQuzgTX2seQ_Cc9y7lUTbB1Hi9k84VM9WfXBQRaqqrlKB-2Zyx6zWGRDfkx5c9xbTCnktKP4BLwgTSKLpHeGDXfKVHFHnbYGenN0iTT0wVd1N7eICITxQ/s1600/2014-04-22+13.38.07.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First layer fitted</td></tr>
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The nub of it is, it takes awhile. The cutting and fitting process is not straight forward on a boat. Boats are a collection of curves - it is what gives them style. It also means you will seldom ever cut just a straight line and expect it to fit.<br />
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Moreover, each layer is secured to the underlying layer by thickened epoxy and screw heads are covered over with the same. Epoxy takes a day to cure well and each layer should be sanded smooth before proceeding to the next layer. So, the whole process takes time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzGLCk-yFCHx7X8DpcGfvGnsTx0L4MvpkFfHNIbqryc0rhygYpnNeJI2LompyuluVVt1S_GKp7QyWzZvHkkbHlNh0Po5dC-6fkqtrPJe8APhkWTv5k-m5WkubDVdwvAWF88uSmec7_jis/s1600/2014-05-26+12.01.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzGLCk-yFCHx7X8DpcGfvGnsTx0L4MvpkFfHNIbqryc0rhygYpnNeJI2LompyuluVVt1S_GKp7QyWzZvHkkbHlNh0Po5dC-6fkqtrPJe8APhkWTv5k-m5WkubDVdwvAWF88uSmec7_jis/s1600/2014-05-26+12.01.08.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Third (and final) layer</td></tr>
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In the photo to the right, you see the third - and final - layer on with the hatches rough cut out.<br />
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One of the trickiest aspect of this part of the project was trimming the edge flush with the cabin sides. The reason for this was twofold. First, I'm a novice at this and I am learning as I go. Second, the arc of the house top makes getting a good measurement a bit awkward especially as the cabin is rounded in the front.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><i>Trimming the Edges</i></span></b><br />
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I was able to do a reasonable workman-like job using a two step process. First, using a skill saw, I rough cut the top to within two inches of the sides (I may be a novice, but I can at least accomplish that). However, since the final cut had to be a lot closer, I needed to scribe a very accurate line on the house top that told me where the cabin side ended and air began.<br />
<br />
A shipwright in the boatyard, solved the problem for me: create a tool shaped like a "c" clamp, the bottom section of which rides along the cabin sides and top of which scribes a line. The part that makes the letter "c" must be wide enough to accommodate the overhang of the cabin top. Using strapping left over from the frame, I made a tool that looked more like a "G" than a "C" so that the bottom of it had a long, flat guide I could put flush against the cabin side. My pencil went into a hole at the top directly above the edge that would ride along the cabin side. In this way, I had a line that told me exactly where the cabin side stopped.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhECREJtrL4NGqaxh-GtjQUONVOZc7CVSTj6fdXgBUMnOxNNdb3j9EQQzLnljlrB5PcOYGFhHgYHMcszr1A4NbW6UBulBlqKtMWKq7x9KHeEJlI8bt-AokapEF3wvX4xHE24wKgGaTEbj8/s1600/2014-06-15+16.25.57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhECREJtrL4NGqaxh-GtjQUONVOZc7CVSTj6fdXgBUMnOxNNdb3j9EQQzLnljlrB5PcOYGFhHgYHMcszr1A4NbW6UBulBlqKtMWKq7x9KHeEJlI8bt-AokapEF3wvX4xHE24wKgGaTEbj8/s1600/2014-06-15+16.25.57.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edges Trimmed up and Hatches Cut</td></tr>
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The final rough trim was done with a jigsaw to within 1/16 of an inch of the top and the final trim was done with a 7" block plane.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAjTHl1zIpYcnKWZgr_JxSKLq8y3s6WscW0XSATqlkUfAieZfcN5v8j0agFovlHdINCSERmzqt44eDeHR-ox4N6eXtd4DFlFxEfNbYGVbw8jq4aX6TwlmGmf-e72bDdAhKuUcooTBGlw/s1600/2014-06-22+11.52.25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAjTHl1zIpYcnKWZgr_JxSKLq8y3s6WscW0XSATqlkUfAieZfcN5v8j0agFovlHdINCSERmzqt44eDeHR-ox4N6eXtd4DFlFxEfNbYGVbw8jq4aX6TwlmGmf-e72bDdAhKuUcooTBGlw/s1600/2014-06-22+11.52.25.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final Edge</td></tr>
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The next step was to round the edges of the cabin top. Originally, I thought a router would be thing to use, but that proved to be too complex. The reason for this is, again, the arc of the house top. To get a straight up and down cut, the angle of a router would have to be continuously adjusted as you went. Additionally, any jig would need to be constantly adjustable as the arc changes as you move forward along the house top.<br />
<br />
So, deft use of the orbital sander and a good eye (and some hand sanding) provided a serviceable and pleasing rounded edge.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><i>Final Details</i></span></b><br />
<br />
Before I could get to the fiberglassing of the cabin top, there were a couple of other details to deal with. The first was to fair any obvious depressions in the cabin top. Remember, the cabin top is like the hood of your car. As you sit in the cockpit you will be looking at it most of the time. More importantly you will be looking at it at just the right oblique angle such that any depressions in the top will be obvious and they will be a constant reminder of the importance of taking the time to get the prep work right. Anyway, I find that West Systems 407 filler is the best stuff for this as it fills and sands easily.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifTuhNa6hw1xSFnSRs_sJRNxxA3gQ22XI9Y5E3uGfhcKryVZ6Svs5mii3GRhwXUlxDBWcJZnfv_0KqXwxFUrSfrDknvwmQI4Avl1terSxU_obOWGBgs3SP9fuwigpHL4Z2f3sidjxgZH8/s1600/2014-06-26+17.11.57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifTuhNa6hw1xSFnSRs_sJRNxxA3gQ22XI9Y5E3uGfhcKryVZ6Svs5mii3GRhwXUlxDBWcJZnfv_0KqXwxFUrSfrDknvwmQI4Avl1terSxU_obOWGBgs3SP9fuwigpHL4Z2f3sidjxgZH8/s1600/2014-06-26+17.11.57.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
Wood Stove </td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynI6xGLpMgJNRXgJm6ANgfav3k8nQHdl5jb9zNP1tow12it1rGDDv6_37xOBEmsIN9LTJai59mQkCPOU9zVecSuP6SDPGnlP8LC9PSbCwhYKAORwzJ7IWc5fx0IF4ljldRMeYzNIc1Uc/s1600/2014-06-26+16.35.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynI6xGLpMgJNRXgJm6ANgfav3k8nQHdl5jb9zNP1tow12it1rGDDv6_37xOBEmsIN9LTJai59mQkCPOU9zVecSuP6SDPGnlP8LC9PSbCwhYKAORwzJ7IWc5fx0IF4ljldRMeYzNIc1Uc/s1600/2014-06-26+16.35.31.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No wood stove</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
The other detail was to cut a hole to accommodate the chimney for the wood stove. Using the old flu and a plumb bob, I marked the center of the hole I needed and then drilled up from the cabin. From above I drew a 6" circle around the center hole and cut it out with a jigsaw. After all the time spent getting the top in place, I must admit to a real reluctance in cutting into the top, but the chimney has to go somewhere.</div>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKOjFc48043hjY2c0y7H5rtrrv8bY1gdEtgnxtmez3LyFdsdXBrz6A0SE_DPMgYlIL8K6VGeb5bkkuByKaBs8txwFm1FiyhgXl95WOqZcYQFCb6utMgBcuMqjO9XrDRh6pzz23DB1gjw/s1600/2014-07-02+11.48.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKOjFc48043hjY2c0y7H5rtrrv8bY1gdEtgnxtmez3LyFdsdXBrz6A0SE_DPMgYlIL8K6VGeb5bkkuByKaBs8txwFm1FiyhgXl95WOqZcYQFCb6utMgBcuMqjO9XrDRh6pzz23DB1gjw/s1600/2014-07-02+11.48.18.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding Deck Iron platform</td></tr>
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When I removed the cabin top, I'd kept the platform that had been made to fit the deck iron. This platform allows the deck iron and stack to be level on an otherwise curved deck. It is also what determined the diameter of the hole. Once I cleaned up the edges of the hole, I fastened the deck iron platform to the cabin top with thickened epoxy and several clamps.<br />
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<br />
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<b><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;"><i>Fiberglassing the Deck </i></span></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifJPYPRVLf-uNmSHB3VtpqVAgBAWmESlLIJqfDILqqQT6Xk5Y5SGvHq1dD_X-wmSn49rwOxAMkjs90oLqLFvUgfKLUdn9I86ImteteLy5UnA_6BzgQ2qkySp6UstgAEwHXiRMEfljHVYk/s1600/2014-07-04+14.07.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifJPYPRVLf-uNmSHB3VtpqVAgBAWmESlLIJqfDILqqQT6Xk5Y5SGvHq1dD_X-wmSn49rwOxAMkjs90oLqLFvUgfKLUdn9I86ImteteLy5UnA_6BzgQ2qkySp6UstgAEwHXiRMEfljHVYk/s1600/2014-07-04+14.07.52.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting and fitting the cloth</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-_7WpRCI-G5notTiyMy4fxHfRJTj5igCGHlM24Ih3IDbo84cQxEuGjcPnFAtPBeizz8ftbIskK86c5F2u2CaVI413cVr4L33cImKS7xWHUZ4z82pFSvLSJDrbqgdlshPFOOidFH9jfk/s1600/2014-07-05+11.28.28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-_7WpRCI-G5notTiyMy4fxHfRJTj5igCGHlM24Ih3IDbo84cQxEuGjcPnFAtPBeizz8ftbIskK86c5F2u2CaVI413cVr4L33cImKS7xWHUZ4z82pFSvLSJDrbqgdlshPFOOidFH9jfk/s1600/2014-07-05+11.28.28.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fiberglass wetted out with Epoxy</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Once all that dried, I was ready to glass the cabin top. Since this is a cabin top and will not get a lot of foot traffic, I chose 6 ounce cloth.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
There are many sites and videos outlining this process so I won't go into detail on this stage, but I will point out a couple of things not generally mentioned that made the job easier. First, once all the cloth is laid out, smooth it out with your hands starting in the center and moving your hands to the edges. Take your time and go through several smoothings - you want it to lie as flat as you can get it. Also, leave it out overnight as it will start to take the shape you want on its own. </div>
<br />
Second, when it comes time to apply the epoxy, having someone else mix the pots and hand them to you as needed is a huge help. On a relatively small job like this, you could do it alone, but the pot, your trowel, your gloves and brush all get slipperier than two snakes in a bucket of snot and moving back and forth from your work area to the epoxy containers will make the job less pleasant than it already is.<br />
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From here, I will put on at least two more layers of epoxy and follow with a primer coat and top coat(s). The state of the tide out there is that Awlgrip is <u>the</u> topcoat to use for durability, etc. However, I know of several yachtsmen who opt for a single part polyurethane such as Interlux. Whichever you use, the key is in the prep. Both products will look shoddy if the work underneath is.<br />
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If you have followed me this far, you may have noted that <i>Desiree </i> has received a change of venue. In late June, space became available indoors at our boatyard. This has been a huge boon as progress can move forward regardless of weather with lot more elbow room. In the photo below, you see her in the shed, glass laid out on her cabin top and her spars on saw horses. You will also note, her gammon knee is missing. The bow is a story for another time as is the reconditioning of the spars . . . . Stay Tuned.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii4L6KMFX95jwUtw_9XVNgbs_hzscDYX-KJWUIAVGPo5QP4C2lYdMX1KjITath9qsxy5qs3ZQ5S9mLMkwcS6j4TebFdyT4mxvcw-udMn3f3mXEU4YKqFZ2HrrJZMndmHJHf62sFAUwH5E/s1600/2014-07-04+15.10.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii4L6KMFX95jwUtw_9XVNgbs_hzscDYX-KJWUIAVGPo5QP4C2lYdMX1KjITath9qsxy5qs3ZQ5S9mLMkwcS6j4TebFdyT4mxvcw-udMn3f3mXEU4YKqFZ2HrrJZMndmHJHf62sFAUwH5E/s1600/2014-07-04+15.10.07.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-71875476782938262014-06-10T12:07:00.001-07:002014-06-21T18:53:21.144-07:00What's in a Name . . . Changing a boat's name. <div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b><span style="color: #bf9000;">"IT'S BAD LUCK TO CHANGE THE NAME OF A BOAT"</span></b></i></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">If you've spent </span><u style="text-align: center;">any</u><span style="text-align: center;"> time around the water at all, you've heard it. </span>Sailors, from time immemorial, have been a superstitious lot and have given this old saw plenty of credence. Anyone who gets roped into this conversation will hear one old salt tell of a time when an otherwise fine craft somehow wouldn't stop throwing up after a name change. Another equally old salt will spit to leeward and call it all bilge water and tell you that it is bad seamanship that gets an adverse review from Lady Luck. Regardless of which salt shaker you find yourself in, it is also clear (again, from time immemorial) that the names of boats have been changed often. Repeatedly.<br />
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Not surprisingly, many sources (and salts) are adamant that if one wants to change the name of a vessel, they may do so without incurring the wrath of the good Lady, but only if they follow a prescribed ceremony.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT2ZfNbbfUK3vNSz21rIdrcIXXKFp4MhseGqMnbTUjz6mj47MnYlftcXC9IRMnwH6D0aOSsrZkSsBThkJ8fLHwm4UZPOGxl00Z_cOijJwrFymDQetqEhwD1vpUEdSh5VUzNpg1tWArjfI/s1600/small-poseidon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT2ZfNbbfUK3vNSz21rIdrcIXXKFp4MhseGqMnbTUjz6mj47MnYlftcXC9IRMnwH6D0aOSsrZkSsBThkJ8fLHwm4UZPOGxl00Z_cOijJwrFymDQetqEhwD1vpUEdSh5VUzNpg1tWArjfI/s1600/small-poseidon.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poseidon (or Neptune or Aegir if you prefer)</td></tr>
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Now, this makes sense. Sort of. The lore of the sea is big on ceremonies. It is part of the mystique surrounding the "Romance of the Sea." For example, there are ceremonies for Launching, ceremonies when one crosses specific geographic milestones for the first time (e.g. the equator, the Arctic or numerous meridians) and too many other naval ceremonies to mention. Why shouldn't there be one for changing the name of a vessel?<br />
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According to believers, the purpose of this ceremony is twofold: Since Poseidon maintains a ledger of all vessels, the first objective is to remove the old name from the record and second, to ask him (and Aeolus, the god of the winds) to look with favor on the new name.<br />
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Even a cursory glance of the web will highlight many versions of the ceremony for renaming a vessel. I will not re-hash the details of the ceremony (or variations thereof) here. You can look them up as well as I (although for your convenience, I have posted links below to many of them with an abstract of what you'll find). My purpose in this post is that of the poor beachcomber, to simply sift through the flotsam here to see if there's anything of value. <br />
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<i><b><span style="color: #f1c232;">THE CEREMONY</span></b></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQ2Z08HaDCUm9C5QGIok01NCV7hp-p4jgHaQb2vzcwj66yC_5ViAhXDSB4LCbA9_NUa8FfVJhgKIcc2O1Bq4reZ4tE22KUc3agJ7Il3wUwyC-So4274lsb6b6e0ePBSvD2aVYIceOYtA/s1600/naming_a_baot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQ2Z08HaDCUm9C5QGIok01NCV7hp-p4jgHaQb2vzcwj66yC_5ViAhXDSB4LCbA9_NUa8FfVJhgKIcc2O1Bq4reZ4tE22KUc3agJ7Il3wUwyC-So4274lsb6b6e0ePBSvD2aVYIceOYtA/s1600/naming_a_baot.jpg" height="109" width="200" /></a>First, one must understand there appears to no <u>one</u> ceremony. Oh, each will tell you that theirs is the one, true ceremony, but replace the word "religion" for "ceremony" in this sentence and you can start a war. In short, the majority of these ceremonies include a "de-naming" ceremony and a "renaming" ceremony. All seem to involve an alcoholic toast to the Sea Deity of your choice. To really understand this, I did some extensive research (i.e. complete perusal of the first 20 hits on Google). Here is what I found to be essential for the proper ceremony:<br />
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<ul>
<li>I should stand on the bow.</li>
<li>I should stand on the stern.</li>
<li>I should use champagne.</li>
<li>I should use "very good" red wine (no guidance here on what is "very good").</li>
<li>I can use non alcoholic sparkling drink if I prefer (although they say nothing about what Poseidon wants, so I'd tread lightly with this one if I were you).</li>
<li>I should use plastic champagne flutes because they're safer (like Poseidon cares).</li>
<li>I should use crystal champagne flutes because Poseidon likes quality (lesson: Don't muck about with gods).</li>
<li>I should face into the wind.</li>
<li>I should face away from the wind.</li>
<li>I can perform this ceremony myself.</li>
<li>I should hire a professional celebrant who specializes in vessel renaming ceremonies (no doubt suggested by someone who "just happens" to be a "professional celebrant").</li>
<li>This is a solemn ceremony.</li>
<li>This is a ceremony that is backed by a kazoo band.</li>
<li>All incantations to the various deities should be in the style of Richard Burton.</li>
<li>I should scuttle the boat and then raise and rename her.</li>
<li><span style="text-align: center;">I should (and I am not making this up) get a virgin to urinate on the bow during the ceremony. Seriously, look it up. </span></li>
</ul>
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<i><b><span style="color: #f1c232;">PICKING THE CORRECT DEITY </span></b></i><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8l4jNevTOIAcWMAIEFOaH-4u0NP0o4lhDiHIxzaVTqJ7roRAPEaQwL2HT7ReXJtTxjhH0qWZOCrmOXF8AbZwBbivBQL81jyI5jEHbzzI9MYvpnXYcB7JN3ov745KDrZD0CzKHaoWjrKQ/s1600/poseidon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8l4jNevTOIAcWMAIEFOaH-4u0NP0o4lhDiHIxzaVTqJ7roRAPEaQwL2HT7ReXJtTxjhH0qWZOCrmOXF8AbZwBbivBQL81jyI5jEHbzzI9MYvpnXYcB7JN3ov745KDrZD0CzKHaoWjrKQ/s1600/poseidon.jpg" height="200" width="136" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picking the wrong one</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One practical conundrum in all this is picking the correct god. We all know Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea. Neptune, another favorite, is Roman. But what of Aegir (Norse), or Lir (Irish), or Daucini (Fijian), or Ahti (Finnish) or Kanaloa (Hawaiian)? If we know anything of gods, literature and myth tell us they are fickle and easily offended. It seems one runs a great risk to the safety of one's vessel by offending the right god simply by backing the wrong one.<br />
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On that note, one site laid this out pretty clearly by reminding readers of the Third Commandment and dismissing these "ceremonies" as "pagan worships to false gods" (by the way, this site also dismissed the use of alcohol as "God strictly forbids mixing alcohol with worship"). So, it all comes back to: what do you <i><u>really</u> </i>believe in the darkest moment of the darkest day given the consequences if you get it wrong?<br />
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<b><i><span style="color: #f1c232;">OTHER THOUGHTS</span></i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
There are some other comments on renaming boats that are interesting. One is that boat names beginning with "A" are unlucky. Don't ask me why, the author - a senior member of the Wooden Boat forum - didn't expand. The same author noted that, in Scotland, it was believed that changing the name of a vessel could change the luck. Lastly, he agreed with others that overly boastly names might be bad (e.g. Poseidon's Pussy, Storm Breaker, Ruler of the Seas, Neptune's Nanny, Titanic). These appear to be the nautical equivalent of standing on an exposed hill in a thunderstorm and holding a nine iron above your head shouting: "All the gods are Weenies."<br />
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There is some support for the notion that the superstition about renaming vessels has a far more practical origin. One site suggested that the British Royal Navy (no stranger to renaming vessels itself) took advantage of pirates' penchant for superstition and spread the rumor. The result, they hoped, would be that pirates would not change the names of vessels they stole, thereby making them easier to identify and recapture.<br />
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Another practical explanation for this superstition focuses on the profit motive of ancient ship owners. Then, as now, the governing authorities sought a myriad of taxes, fees and assessments. The renaming of a vessel was a sign that a large commercial transaction just took place sufficient to warrant an interest by the taxing authorities. And if that isn't bad luck, I'd like to know what is! Keeping the same name kept all the documentation in order and allowed owners to fly under the radar, as it were. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ9jJD8q4HV6Jm3Sxjz15mhyphenhyphen57LSd2LE7ROtqSRRKbC5U_2Fgu6jpff_SgoLP_mOB7OlB0jS2uQZLZ3qwnZQyyecsziPmGoH-f7KIDST7y85vPyds1SZe2WR9gGsPD_lD-7qLVbDm_0V8/s1600/boatname.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ9jJD8q4HV6Jm3Sxjz15mhyphenhyphen57LSd2LE7ROtqSRRKbC5U_2Fgu6jpff_SgoLP_mOB7OlB0jS2uQZLZ3qwnZQyyecsziPmGoH-f7KIDST7y85vPyds1SZe2WR9gGsPD_lD-7qLVbDm_0V8/s1600/boatname.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indecision is an awful thing</td></tr>
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So, change the name; keep the name. Whatever floats your boat. If you think God (or gods) exist, you may want to seriously consider a ceremony of sorts - just hope you back the right horse, here (although we'll all find out sooner or later). If not, just make sure it's a name easily pronounceable over the radio.<br />
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I'll leave you with this from the aforementioned senior member of the Wooden Boat Forum:<br />
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<i>"If you spend time with your boat, she may, like a cat, keep her deepest name hidden but she will reveal a name she will allow you to know her by."</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Notes</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/rename.htm">http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/rename.htm</a> (obliterate name;champagne,metal tag, incantation to the 4 winds)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.boatinghowto.com/content/renaming-your-boat-ceremony-steeped-tradition-lore-286/">http://www.boatinghowto.com/content/renaming-your-boat-ceremony-steeped-tradition-lore-286/</a> (obliterate previous name, de-naming ceremony (w/ incantation), renaming ceremony, 3 bottles of wine, metal ingot w/ water soluable pen, incantation to the 4 winds)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.bluewatersailing.com/documents/renamingceremony.pdf">http://www.bluewatersailing.com/documents/renamingceremony.pdf</a> (same as above, "very good" red wine, incantation to Poseidon and Aeolus only - not all 4 winds - and only Aeolus if a sailboat. Offers 2 other methods: 1) scuttle the boat and refloat and 2) have a virgin urinate on the bow while renaming . . .</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.johnvigor.com/Denaming.html">http://www.johnvigor.com/Denaming.html</a> (original denaming ceremony, champagne, sparking non-alcoholic drink if preferred)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.frugal-mariner.com/Renaming.html">http://www.frugal-mariner.com/Renaming.html</a> (ceremony scientifically tested; Pirates were superstitious so Royal Navy spread the rumor that changing a vessel's name was bad luck - making it easier to spot and recapture ships stolen by pirates. Crystal champagne flutes, Gods' glasses must hold more champagne than guests' glasses. Renaming ceremony on stern (although silent on location of denaming ceremony) with kazoo accompianment <i>and</i> an admonition that the Captain is always right.)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.boatnames.com.au/boat-naming-renaming-ceremony.htm">http://www.boatnames.com.au/boat-naming-renaming-ceremony.htm</a> (hiring a "professional civil celebrant who specializes in boat naming and blessing ceremonies."</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://www.boatnames.net/wiki.aspx/boat_name_myth">https://www.boatnames.net/wiki.aspx/boat_name_myth</a> (outlines alternative view of why re-naming was unlucky: It drew attention to the transfer of a large commercial asset from one owner to another raising the spectre of tax consequences. Basically, debunks the myth that renaming is bad luck).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.commanderbob.com/art19.html">http://www.commanderbob.com/art19.html</a> (invite everyone important to the boat - including the family pet. Plastic flutes in lieu of crystal; celebrant should speak in the manner of Richard Burton; champagne</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://gcipa.homestead.com/RenamingCeremony.html">http://gcipa.homestead.com/RenamingCeremony.html</a> (ceremony in rhyming prose)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.namemyboat.com/rename.html">http://www.namemyboat.com/rename.html</a> (Boat renaming ceremonies are steeped in pagan worship to false gods and the only appropriate invocation is to the Christian god. Moreover, alcohol is not in the picture as "God strictly forbids mixing alcohol with worship").</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.history.navy.mil/faqs/faq92-1.htm">http://www.history.navy.mil/faqs/faq92-1.htm</a> (naval ceremonies)</span><br />
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-52565506597294561952014-06-05T18:22:00.000-07:002014-06-05T18:22:35.705-07:00The Guy Who Came In From The Cold<br />
<i><span style="color: #ffd966;">Ed. Note: This was to be published originally in March, but never got there . . .</span></i><br />
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If you live in New England, what I am about to say won't shock you: The weather this year has been down right inhospitable if your goal is to restore a wooden boat outdoors. To wit: the average <u>maximum</u> daily temperature for January, February and March was 35, 36 and 42 respectively. Moreover, half of each of those months were either snow or cold rain.<br />
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I get it. January and February are <u>supposed </u>to be cold in New England. By the time March rolls around, however, one kind of expects to get a few milder days when epoxy might cure - even with heat lamps. But it was not to be.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOLUdOlgqCA5aIvOPPcsXFnZ6gw3exaCkmkaOWXvif8Pr135c2cyBp2N9Abr-a0CRu0gxonZXrmH0LUX6tafBZULD88_c99cfG3esHSa4wHJs4WZycBD15GwuqAXOoYk0ekph4ulHVfY8/s1600/2013-12-20+13.39.06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOLUdOlgqCA5aIvOPPcsXFnZ6gw3exaCkmkaOWXvif8Pr135c2cyBp2N9Abr-a0CRu0gxonZXrmH0LUX6tafBZULD88_c99cfG3esHSa4wHJs4WZycBD15GwuqAXOoYk0ekph4ulHVfY8/s1600/2013-12-20+13.39.06.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After Lazarette is behind wheel</td></tr>
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So, I retreated into the shop where a whole tick list of things awaited.<br />
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The first on the list was the hatch cover for the after lazarette. It is fiberglass over wood and was crazed by the elements and neglect and delaminated along it's forward edge. In the picture to the right, it is the hatch cover aft of the wheel. The dark stripe across the front is where the glass cracked and water seeped in.<br />
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After pulling off the delaminated fiberglass to let the wood dry out, it was obvious that some of the plys had begun to separate too. Last, one of the corners needed to be built back up where there had been some significant chipping.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkel0m5pZZafOyxmMxw0wg2mP24_JfRyJpwEGTgQvpvFCtR3_mZxyC3VioLj440QmRkzoLyjSLAaDRcymF4snskfAzeclXgjQhxc89DR88P05Tkb7wVUuKCyZAnNVetvyZ5Lrta12_0fg/s1600/2014-03-22+09.35.59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkel0m5pZZafOyxmMxw0wg2mP24_JfRyJpwEGTgQvpvFCtR3_mZxyC3VioLj440QmRkzoLyjSLAaDRcymF4snskfAzeclXgjQhxc89DR88P05Tkb7wVUuKCyZAnNVetvyZ5Lrta12_0fg/s1600/2014-03-22+09.35.59.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
This hatch presented another opportunity as well. <i>Desiree's </i>deck and housetop was sheathed in fiberglass and fifteen years in the elements caused significant crazing in several places. My experience with crazing is that even several coats of paint will not minimize it - the crazing will still show through.<br />
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So, I thought this hatch could serve as a guinea pig for addressing the crazing because it is all over the boat. My main concern is to seal it from water, but it would be an added bonus if I could make it not so noticeable.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnZNndHpmfwfcvD2hNYOWj8oz2GdvJkESXnFAdVzupwSkXDBL9weq2_R11AL5kbpfjDe_5JFfTwaR9cwo7F_UxglN7yAR8NPmMkx_8QjQZLllwkF1W49VB3h_tTfXs_uDq8Y_TKvpGol0/s1600/2014-04-05+08.57.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnZNndHpmfwfcvD2hNYOWj8oz2GdvJkESXnFAdVzupwSkXDBL9weq2_R11AL5kbpfjDe_5JFfTwaR9cwo7F_UxglN7yAR8NPmMkx_8QjQZLllwkF1W49VB3h_tTfXs_uDq8Y_TKvpGol0/s1600/2014-04-05+08.57.26.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a><br />
The first job was to grind away any loose fiberglass and epoxy the plys back together. Thickened epoxy squirted in between the plys with a syringe and clamped tightly made quick work of that.<br />
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The second part of it was to re-glass the leading edge fairing it into the existing, good fiberglass.<br />
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Once the fiberglass cured and was faired, I turned to the crazing. My solution here was to try a high build epoxy primer. If you're not familiar with this stuff, it is a two part epoxy that should be used in a very well ventilated area. A word of warning, here: Failure to pay attention to this venting admonition may cause you to see the Deity of your choice and make you incapable of finding your bottom with both hands. This is potent stuff.<br />
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At any rate, it goes on and hardens thickly and fills the minute cracks. Once dry, it can be sanded easily and faired. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg571dDyzn8x_n9_kMiUV2pzOkw8u3Stk8VF7GSBBfD0vhmUldxntZ3yOh631Sow0227G35zXMrUJeyJY1UgFQVHb2hm4cbfpTbaI33DXidiMQC7CJ8YlAx-oIOqDzqYkC-TatYCnZxs_o/s1600/2014-04-09+17.29.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg571dDyzn8x_n9_kMiUV2pzOkw8u3Stk8VF7GSBBfD0vhmUldxntZ3yOh631Sow0227G35zXMrUJeyJY1UgFQVHb2hm4cbfpTbaI33DXidiMQC7CJ8YlAx-oIOqDzqYkC-TatYCnZxs_o/s1600/2014-04-09+17.29.35.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hatch with one coat of high build epoxy</td></tr>
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On top of that, go two coats of topside paint. As can be seen, I still have to trim up the buff non-skid, but will do that as part of a larger painting project. While these photos don't show it without extreme close up, the crazing is all but gone (at least for now - crazing is notorious for "coming back). The result, for now, is encouraging and pleasing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr7uDjqzLDLmzJqMS3S72Nf3DfuU9rMhjIPqDNtsmVoxPpg6NLQVFcCanK2MnAOc3JYPCIX7dDRQoTez7ihAI49uG6vcmReVGDms4Nfj3CfDPV-hmBbJ1Tjr3zD1xkhTDSIK_H5vgcUF8/s1600/2013-12-20+13.39.06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr7uDjqzLDLmzJqMS3S72Nf3DfuU9rMhjIPqDNtsmVoxPpg6NLQVFcCanK2MnAOc3JYPCIX7dDRQoTez7ihAI49uG6vcmReVGDms4Nfj3CfDPV-hmBbJ1Tjr3zD1xkhTDSIK_H5vgcUF8/s1600/2013-12-20+13.39.06.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2HXmkXLcco0YHjq2hATiLOB5m5HK9e1PvLP5eV17fU04jiFfAeOhCJoXYS_Bnk8gkgfZb79Ucz0BW3pk1pXxOQV8WTv0y0k10vtVDnO9MnBwGucxn5Kf6tmfVZa9I2nIo3XpmG8koBo/s1600/2014-04-26+08.55.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2HXmkXLcco0YHjq2hATiLOB5m5HK9e1PvLP5eV17fU04jiFfAeOhCJoXYS_Bnk8gkgfZb79Ucz0BW3pk1pXxOQV8WTv0y0k10vtVDnO9MnBwGucxn5Kf6tmfVZa9I2nIo3XpmG8koBo/s1600/2014-04-26+08.55.48.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After</td></tr>
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There is a lot more crazing around the vessel, but I liked what I saw, so we will continue to use the high build epoxy and see how it goes long-term. Often, when we do this sort of work, we want it to be perfect but I keep coming back to something a wooden boat friend once told me:<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>It's not furniture; it's a boat. </i></div>
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And so it goes . . . .<br />
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<i><br /></i>Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-47215765089421849242014-02-23T05:10:00.000-08:002014-02-23T05:20:23.544-08:00Up on the House Top<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-uOFNm82rgzQw80T0OHuYm7PibmfqqTuipGUydh3XO0QvA_uv57iOvSUD9lMwHDJ-PvScz7JE9XgyWjinJktcXQokPWH_CuPeZRnOCL2H-TyIfoSP9m4aTlnOY-xiHGaSVAl0gAiKJEI/s1600/2014-01-18+14.12.52+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-uOFNm82rgzQw80T0OHuYm7PibmfqqTuipGUydh3XO0QvA_uv57iOvSUD9lMwHDJ-PvScz7JE9XgyWjinJktcXQokPWH_CuPeZRnOCL2H-TyIfoSP9m4aTlnOY-xiHGaSVAl0gAiKJEI/s1600/2014-01-18+14.12.52+(1).jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forward Hatch - starboard side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpJ2U8Jih8k2Y2fSuHBAYeq_BYTBVw-VngtnsIsGIDF_9P0Mh1rzOn8vCLMAKPU6DU_chWCtHIAKCPx9-kGbpi6OUnGGzM4orMjQjZpZUMuhBYYZ1fyO1mcoHg-ym-s9RllJDANLVDfg/s1600/2014-01-25+15.27.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpJ2U8Jih8k2Y2fSuHBAYeq_BYTBVw-VngtnsIsGIDF_9P0Mh1rzOn8vCLMAKPU6DU_chWCtHIAKCPx9-kGbpi6OUnGGzM4orMjQjZpZUMuhBYYZ1fyO1mcoHg-ym-s9RllJDANLVDfg/s1600/2014-01-25+15.27.58.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main Hatchway - port side</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: right;">
In an earlier post, I noted that the whole cabin top would have to come off (see, "Separation Anxiety"). As I started peeling back layers of fiberglass and plywood, I found dampness in all the places I expected, but what convinced me that the whole roof would have to be replaced was finding dampness in places I didn't expect.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzhYLHzJIwZZyjYzaIU7OZMEVUJuc9Hsz04qpzXIYRLoouwILyCOw4Wg_Lrh_2N-sqZ2-9SfRoSaq_lQ1-GbEy0_otdh2XyxNuZlfwkbZeCR-6mniUKiniT62jxpDNab5jH1z1k7BgDyg/s1600/2014-02-01+15.15.59.jpg" height="150" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main Hatchway - starboard side</td></tr>
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As these photos attest, water and mold was everywhere.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAj_3Fg4Gm88x_-pa2FAgFcBfP1D3lNy3KWkQ9bGAk93ld33TGe9AfI_pW_ehPEUrL1N2gNap2cRnCy10emCR33OKx2lsQeGrGREWvb_d7czt-Dj9CsiRYQMe51YL_7SzjQxYhWaJkX8o/s1600/2014-02-19+13.32.27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAj_3Fg4Gm88x_-pa2FAgFcBfP1D3lNy3KWkQ9bGAk93ld33TGe9AfI_pW_ehPEUrL1N2gNap2cRnCy10emCR33OKx2lsQeGrGREWvb_d7czt-Dj9CsiRYQMe51YL_7SzjQxYhWaJkX8o/s1600/2014-02-19+13.32.27.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amidships - port side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Yww_wZ5gmcQlNjlswEmG-BjSPqhpV_e1dxoSq7jCSpij9b_TrrSMOrFIMGPn0qHYArbdRBehlHLHFAtB17M7T1bbzeahMsrNSZ7KNzVYwO4-tZ9emiKlKLHXGC2t_V8T9TwTgDtM3dY/s1600/2014-02-19+12.20.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Yww_wZ5gmcQlNjlswEmG-BjSPqhpV_e1dxoSq7jCSpij9b_TrrSMOrFIMGPn0qHYArbdRBehlHLHFAtB17M7T1bbzeahMsrNSZ7KNzVYwO4-tZ9emiKlKLHXGC2t_V8T9TwTgDtM3dY/s1600/2014-02-19+12.20.56.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amidships - edge of cabin starboard</td></tr>
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More to the point, the house top is not that big and with the exception of the chimney, is free of obstructions. Thus, resheathing the house top should be pretty straightforward (words I'm sure I'll regret later). Originally, I pulled back layers slowly - largely to get a sense of how the cabin top was built. It appears that most of the cabin top was built with three layers of 1/4" Lauan plywood. However, the forward section was three layers of what appears to be 1/8" mahogany plywood with fiberglass and awl grip over all. My guess is that the thinner ply forward allowed for the compound curves at the front of the cabin.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw5IeQbnhTubCGbdhWBj4ewwgT7QWt328ykUW4nrl2lT6138uT-DX017vC4_wtVBeDePgWtHyIp6HBYFBrVlW2PKcKmDveNBOHdqCL8LYjTo1dM9mmSwNy8QYIWb03ZMxofGCEvoVcDm0/s1600/2014-02-08+11.49.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw5IeQbnhTubCGbdhWBj4ewwgT7QWt328ykUW4nrl2lT6138uT-DX017vC4_wtVBeDePgWtHyIp6HBYFBrVlW2PKcKmDveNBOHdqCL8LYjTo1dM9mmSwNy8QYIWb03ZMxofGCEvoVcDm0/s1600/2014-02-08+11.49.04.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"X's" mark the spot - to cut out</td></tr>
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<b><i><span style="color: #f1c232; font-size: large;">Measure Twice, Cut Once</span></i></b><br />
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With that knowledge, the quickest way to remove the rest of the cabin top was to cut away the largest sections - taking care not to cut through the framing beneath. To be sure that didn't happen, I drilled holes up from beneath an inch and a half on either side of all the framing (surgeons refer to this as "clear margins"). Back on top, I "connected the dots" by drawing solid lines between the drilled holes. This gave me a template on the top of the house to guide the saw.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLaTgkzk4xVnJdmAatnfWuf25M9UxPiaNDpJ5G__YMvcHdZi3LhJUn8H4vGVD6eBMh_NP3Jsiw3n9zYYFo6EATGUoaODllujHciHiyFIoCJTA7j0UYa82z1cNTds5K4NxebEP7eRaxlA/s1600/2014-02-08+14.02.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLaTgkzk4xVnJdmAatnfWuf25M9UxPiaNDpJ5G__YMvcHdZi3LhJUn8H4vGVD6eBMh_NP3Jsiw3n9zYYFo6EATGUoaODllujHciHiyFIoCJTA7j0UYa82z1cNTds5K4NxebEP7eRaxlA/s1600/2014-02-08+14.02.18.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large sections removed</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM2vSc2-pqSgfuzg9RZihyphenhyphen_UMAC-IH4R92oCwpu-XGEnLGMR1eX55LBPmFDt7MOBLlE7aabN_6h3AVi9jyS8HDVXOEfTkyfVTOATlKAz6Qajuy1Adi25WLJ_vAln5v2zVJsMG6vghWtCE/s1600/2014-02-08+12.39.55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM2vSc2-pqSgfuzg9RZihyphenhyphen_UMAC-IH4R92oCwpu-XGEnLGMR1eX55LBPmFDt7MOBLlE7aabN_6h3AVi9jyS8HDVXOEfTkyfVTOATlKAz6Qajuy1Adi25WLJ_vAln5v2zVJsMG6vghWtCE/s1600/2014-02-08+12.39.55.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large sections removed</td></tr>
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When it is your intent to take a skill saw to your boat, t<span style="text-align: center;">here is a fair amount of anxiety before you take the irreversible act of a major incision. </span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">My grandfather was a carpenter and was fond of the saying "measure twice, cut once." This was firmly in my mind as I double-checked that the lines I'd drawn lined up with where I really wanted them. I can honestly say the lines did nothing to reduce my anxiety of plunging a skill saw into the flesh of the deck. </span><br />
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After the large sections were removed, it was a matter of peeling back the layers of glass and plywood - removing fasteners from the frames as I went. A heavy, long handled chisel came in very handy here as it had the edge to get in between plys and plenty of leverage to peel back large sections.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs_x7CWA0AcCJ_2kjR3ZFPQd2r6Ea341v5rgm8RpNfWgpqLVGKD8w39XCvMzraEVDvqNZq1dkZiStxHMqI62OT6qo_yRZOr13gIfz3CDUnB11qg27kTopR_R_-d0f84glMD_lCSkFf678/s1600/2014-02-20+15.44.25+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs_x7CWA0AcCJ_2kjR3ZFPQd2r6Ea341v5rgm8RpNfWgpqLVGKD8w39XCvMzraEVDvqNZq1dkZiStxHMqI62OT6qo_yRZOr13gIfz3CDUnB11qg27kTopR_R_-d0f84glMD_lCSkFf678/s1600/2014-02-20+15.44.25+(1).jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT5Y4LCdF3ApoGglwEgyWLU-pKa_UHmIaCGVbZpigJLR5tPxqk8fhDTIsxe9v9PBxiPoJ2bgQJDH3bjiVFeEdlFlUlmXeYiqdYXH-YR9Kw4xBKyiQmWJbFxmugy9lzMUCXpn31J9s9JCM/s1600/2014-02-19+13.58.45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT5Y4LCdF3ApoGglwEgyWLU-pKa_UHmIaCGVbZpigJLR5tPxqk8fhDTIsxe9v9PBxiPoJ2bgQJDH3bjiVFeEdlFlUlmXeYiqdYXH-YR9Kw4xBKyiQmWJbFxmugy9lzMUCXpn31J9s9JCM/s1600/2014-02-19+13.58.45.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a> The picture on the right shows the cabin top off and its pieces strewn along the deck. The sides of the cabin have some ragged fiberglassed edges and dried caulking all around.<br />
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The picture of the left shows the edges cleaned up and loose fiberglass ground down. The four ovals in the foreground are the bronze port lights. They need to be cleaned and oiled and their absence will make repairing some of the delamination on the cabin sides easier.<br />
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It is a sobering thought that everything I've done to this point has been simply taking things apart. A friend stopped by the other day and reminded me "Remember, you gotta put this all back together y'know." True, but as the Marines say of new recruits: "we break them down first, then we build them back up." No one who's been through boot camp would mistake that experience with what I'm doing, but sometimes you gotta zig before you can zag.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrLa15g9SngvV_LeeD3XqBmkCpP55dS41PZfKLzf4n0EeU7qg2sgC3A4GKOhFsrKClByyDNrShw-q5vvmaqaovhk5e8uLRDFtDJSd8vMfomwUSSIQ9EHXV11wkj_nM77SgPNLGiOE2FzQ/s1600/Anatomy+of+a+block.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrLa15g9SngvV_LeeD3XqBmkCpP55dS41PZfKLzf4n0EeU7qg2sgC3A4GKOhFsrKClByyDNrShw-q5vvmaqaovhk5e8uLRDFtDJSd8vMfomwUSSIQ9EHXV11wkj_nM77SgPNLGiOE2FzQ/s1600/Anatomy+of+a+block.jpg" height="200" width="134" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anatomy of a Block</td></tr>
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When I bought <i>Desiree, </i>she came in several pieces - some of them identifiable even by someone with only a passing familiarity to boats. The hull, mast, wheel and sails all fit into that category. Then there are several pieces that are identifiable only in what they are - not where they go or how they go together. Locker doors, drawers, teak cup holders, handrails and more are all in that category. However, the king of this second group has no equal when it comes to the blocks. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>Lignum Vitae: The Tree of Life</i></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBhteiOuNsb7-E2rnSErpV7w46Vr-BfcGoqgqR-VKzEcc5elc-tsgRyQ7691LkpeZEIm2S4vFnHScXQMnguOMNy5qC1WoQkUbpg6mavUz3hOo_C2g5eTYfdL9RElEmM7Uuz_Gt8SD8Gos/s1600/2014-02-16+16.57.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBhteiOuNsb7-E2rnSErpV7w46Vr-BfcGoqgqR-VKzEcc5elc-tsgRyQ7691LkpeZEIm2S4vFnHScXQMnguOMNy5qC1WoQkUbpg6mavUz3hOo_C2g5eTYfdL9RElEmM7Uuz_Gt8SD8Gos/s1600/2014-02-16+16.57.51.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blocks awaiting assembly</td></tr>
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Lignum Vitae is latin for "The Tree of Life." It is the national tree of the Bahamas and is known for its oils, strength and density. Around the boatyard, it is pronounced <i>lig-nuhm vahy-tee. </i>Latin scholars beware: the second word is <u>not</u> pronounced <i>vee-tay </i>as in "curriculum vee-tay" - at least not in the boatyard. I suppose it goes back to fishermen pronouncing fillets as "fill-ets" and main salons as "saloons." So, when in Rome, don't order Sushi.<br />
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At any rate, <i>Desiree </i>boasts 22 blocks made of the stuff - only 3 of which I'm certain of their location and another 4 of which I'm only "reasonably" certain. After that, it's kind of a crap shoot. I am banking on some photos and schematics along with my not-so-novice knowledge of traditional gaff rigged vessels to get them all in the correct place. Frankly, I'd be shocked if a fair amount of "trial and error" didn't seep into this - probably enough error to result in a mistrial.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFn93qZWEgqQ4BVm-MW8P_6Ptxx0L5cOfGTMAArxZwpXYneyw3mzt_oBrgS8JciOOHH61KCMwjpuDaMreAYuyRsJcf_nNMsm-YDSQmq2zozNXmE7Cl6H26QGm1PqpuIoYrm9lq5YSDru8/s1600/2014-02-16+17.20.30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFn93qZWEgqQ4BVm-MW8P_6Ptxx0L5cOfGTMAArxZwpXYneyw3mzt_oBrgS8JciOOHH61KCMwjpuDaMreAYuyRsJcf_nNMsm-YDSQmq2zozNXmE7Cl6H26QGm1PqpuIoYrm9lq5YSDru8/s1600/2014-02-16+17.20.30.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boom block down to the essentials</td></tr>
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When I acquired <i>Desiree, </i><u>all</u> the blocks were pulled apart. The sheaves, tangs, pins and shackles were all separate from the shell. This was the proverbial two-edged sword.<br />
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On the one hand, this was a huge time saver as it made it easier to varnish the shells. On the other, it has made putting them all back together an advanced exercise in spatial mechanics.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKi5qoSG4g7O7ATnbRWY_PgH-FBhTWhG345tou5mI7Vm9VP7jFfDOEaU29_2Qm4p9EeyvEzsvI4C-859Brp_gBN3TwA30vFzichO_uNKWf37q7-ZZjtmkq1TsSg__bSLEnvQZONLgV1II/s1600/No+4+Block.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKi5qoSG4g7O7ATnbRWY_PgH-FBhTWhG345tou5mI7Vm9VP7jFfDOEaU29_2Qm4p9EeyvEzsvI4C-859Brp_gBN3TwA30vFzichO_uNKWf37q7-ZZjtmkq1TsSg__bSLEnvQZONLgV1II/s1600/No+4+Block.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tag 'em and Bag 'em</td></tr>
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The prior owner had organized each block so that all the pieces were together - or so I thought. However, none (save the Boom Block) were labeled as to their function. To preserve the order, all the presumed pieces of a particular block were assigned a numbered zip-lock bag and the corresponding shell was tagged with that number.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7OfwPeMVoKg5kIUUVV_SP37WTTiinUMHRwYCspDbCxs8w9_KH4rJBH-1bpQF-_NP1yKRM6L0rMpkJ6RtEI3kOYu8TTGhudsevBc0nSjqwkgKcMSWh32r3FPuRF_IlujJD_m_TKZ5rpY/s1600/2014-02-05+11.11.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7OfwPeMVoKg5kIUUVV_SP37WTTiinUMHRwYCspDbCxs8w9_KH4rJBH-1bpQF-_NP1yKRM6L0rMpkJ6RtEI3kOYu8TTGhudsevBc0nSjqwkgKcMSWh32r3FPuRF_IlujJD_m_TKZ5rpY/s1600/2014-02-05+11.11.48.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shrunken Heads (Staysail Club on right)</td></tr>
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Then I hung all the shells from the cellar rafters so that I could varnish the whole shell at one time. The effect was not unlike a bunch of shrunken heads in Torquemada's little shop of "Things to Do of an Evening."<br />
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I did not sand in between each coat, as the goal here was to get several coats of varnish on these shells as quickly as possible. As in many things (such as this blog), perfection can be the enemy of the good. At any rate, ten coats later, we're ready to put these together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Q_7zv3-kayL3HtMKyhRPGvZXKrwasRo9aeUq7y-Y_IHIt1p6LU9nP0OT7ToaUNg4lp2tWDuIx46fuKMTBgtUSsl9JPGRLTIXLtFNGiyk9KW9hLucI3W5qkK35GNhzRa03DFUBqPsgeE/s1600/2014-02-18+13.39.23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Q_7zv3-kayL3HtMKyhRPGvZXKrwasRo9aeUq7y-Y_IHIt1p6LU9nP0OT7ToaUNg4lp2tWDuIx46fuKMTBgtUSsl9JPGRLTIXLtFNGiyk9KW9hLucI3W5qkK35GNhzRa03DFUBqPsgeE/s1600/2014-02-18+13.39.23.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
One little tool that proved invaluable here is shown at right. This is a custom tool similar to the tool used for removing deck fuel and water caps and is designed to hold one flange in place while you screw the pin into it from the other side. Each flange is embedded about 1/16 of an inch and held in place by a tight fit and two screws. <br />
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During the assembly process, it became obvious that more than once, the tang (or screws or pin or sheave) for one shell was in the bag belonging to another shell. Not a big deal, really, but it did slow the process down while I found the correct match with all the excitement of an archaeological dig. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyb0bWRqK3gvg6jxNZbm4vbZB7J_9mcwxlUcKNiU6mJM8fSyXE6jsxYfSJO_qyy-GecydWTHc0_n50CN17GY0RfI0a0sGqPPOzV27ajPawkF5hKjWi626xXjHd940HjxQTIqgUU6JVnAI/s1600/2014-02-18+13.36.55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyb0bWRqK3gvg6jxNZbm4vbZB7J_9mcwxlUcKNiU6mJM8fSyXE6jsxYfSJO_qyy-GecydWTHc0_n50CN17GY0RfI0a0sGqPPOzV27ajPawkF5hKjWi626xXjHd940HjxQTIqgUU6JVnAI/s1600/2014-02-18+13.36.55.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#3 completely apart</td></tr>
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Some shells, like #3 here, came apart completely. So, back to shop for that one. </div>
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On the whole, however, most everything was together. Of 22 blocks,<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgevvDlczUR2mrhGdB1QuTm4LeFCBDzYWnUgbgDrvJBMR8bbNdkq8tOS5sXAl6X3KATjTSjTgaNqIe7lQeVe9IWiWdf_LTJD5fZYwNWIf82-k1Tj7AcWJpci_uYiVP7N3Gvi7SR7vmLJa8/s1600/Boom+block+Ready.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgevvDlczUR2mrhGdB1QuTm4LeFCBDzYWnUgbgDrvJBMR8bbNdkq8tOS5sXAl6X3KATjTSjTgaNqIe7lQeVe9IWiWdf_LTJD5fZYwNWIf82-k1Tj7AcWJpci_uYiVP7N3Gvi7SR7vmLJa8/s1600/Boom+block+Ready.jpg" height="200" width="138" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boom Block ready to Go</td></tr>
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only 8 will need additional work ranging from missing screws to rebuilding the block .<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3qlDwpdaO0ZKH3aqQtqrvpvNxryEUkSEameaRtqBQoV4X-_6XoGVeNRxMFxnHIP00eZJQzvAmcsqcAu-oPOCqxyo0QiWzU0QbHFgdztiht7jRlw6NIOv-3Rl3iiOFrPaHbkSfYmCfyY/s1600/2014-02-18+14.50.24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3qlDwpdaO0ZKH3aqQtqrvpvNxryEUkSEameaRtqBQoV4X-_6XoGVeNRxMFxnHIP00eZJQzvAmcsqcAu-oPOCqxyo0QiWzU0QbHFgdztiht7jRlw6NIOv-3Rl3iiOFrPaHbkSfYmCfyY/s1600/2014-02-18+14.50.24.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greetings from my yard</td></tr>
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In one way, the saving grace to taking on this restoration is the sheer volume of work to be done. This means that there is plenty to be done in the boatyard (see "Separation Anxiety" post) and plenty to do in the shop.<br />
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In New England, we are experiencing our third straight snowfall in as many weeks. While we don't have a monopoly on cold conditions this year, working in the boatyard in sub 25 degree temperatures gets old real fast. <br />
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When that's the case, it is nice to have plenty indoor work to do. </div>
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-72452639292692091562014-02-12T18:41:00.000-08:002014-05-23T07:49:30.157-07:00Melanie is (regrettably) SOLD<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGijwYNcZ2pYvOPha9zY15yrOIKwFUTx_4rwrlxkKuvDmHXFnunAl6W_kkk2J-9Y7ct8Ic0flch_UJDJAm0z5XM1GYxjx-DbRoqsJfPcPVdqqwzkid31qWvtZ3IEdwRhlpn9T3uJvH3E/s1600/The+basin+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGijwYNcZ2pYvOPha9zY15yrOIKwFUTx_4rwrlxkKuvDmHXFnunAl6W_kkk2J-9Y7ct8Ic0flch_UJDJAm0z5XM1GYxjx-DbRoqsJfPcPVdqqwzkid31qWvtZ3IEdwRhlpn9T3uJvH3E/s1600/The+basin+1.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><i><span style="color: #f1c232;">Melanie will be plying New Hampshire waters from now on . . . She will be berthed up the Piscataqua River and her new owners will undoubtedly have many fond memories aboard her. Thank you to all who expressed an interest. </span></i></b><br />
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A man cannot serve two Masters - or Mistresses. At no time is this more true than with boats. With the restoration of <i>Desiree </i>consuming my every boating moment, I cannot do justice to <i>Melanie </i> and have decided to sell her in the hopes there is someone out there who will continue to care for her as her prior owners have.<br />
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She is a 1979 Pearson Yawl and is in very good condition. Her sails, dodger, mainsail cover, roller furling are all new and she comes fully found. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSnhf0Xd3aD9wZ8G_8Fgd8iD6bLhPMxhJr5D6qwr4TSlE4HOLHnx86tDpTWpQoFNRlVraz9tXn1YLdmhO-RoSQ0LlXdgIi5B7Yt1T6ox117irvhnNK_sxalJypM8MVBkL4SXUESpl9kH8/s1600/Melanie+at+Anchor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSnhf0Xd3aD9wZ8G_8Fgd8iD6bLhPMxhJr5D6qwr4TSlE4HOLHnx86tDpTWpQoFNRlVraz9tXn1YLdmhO-RoSQ0LlXdgIi5B7Yt1T6ox117irvhnNK_sxalJypM8MVBkL4SXUESpl9kH8/s1600/Melanie+at+Anchor.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>The Pearson 35 sleeps 5 adults comfortably. There is a V berth forward, a double berth amidships on the port side and single pull-out berth to starboard. The pilot berth (also amidships) is excellent for children. The galley includes a 3 burner alcohol stove to port with oven and ample storage all around. An enclosed head with shower is forward to port directly across from a hanging locker to starboard. <i>Melanie </i>also has a solid fuel stove in the salon ready to go.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBVQpq1xejSXnf17Tx8K6JiAxFLIPzbjnO_Pm4kH6e1irZmEVLdTxcFsoKgFDRLQ9aCW6RAccx04WSDslbQLSF5khdRlSOsKMWAtOJ3s970FPWgLPjVkvpHkpBVnXHhkd_igfmY7-35h0/s1600/cockpit+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBVQpq1xejSXnf17Tx8K6JiAxFLIPzbjnO_Pm4kH6e1irZmEVLdTxcFsoKgFDRLQ9aCW6RAccx04WSDslbQLSF5khdRlSOsKMWAtOJ3s970FPWgLPjVkvpHkpBVnXHhkd_igfmY7-35h0/s1600/cockpit+2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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LOA: 35’<o:p></o:p></div>
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Beam: 10”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Draft: 3’9”/ 7’6”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Engine: Universal
25 HP <o:p></o:p></div>
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Tankage: Fuel 30
gallons (monel tank); Water 90 gallons<o:p></o:p></div>
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Displacement:
13,000 lbs. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Ballast: 5,400 lbs. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Melanie </i>is a great cruiser - her shallow centerboard draft allows you to moor in places other 35 footers can only dream of. With a 10' beam and 6'2" headroom below she is plenty comfortable below and her large cockpit can accommodate several adults (she has been the favorite summer venue of my wife's book club). Her displacement makes her a stable, safe craft. We have had her in heavy seas and she has performed admirably. She has been a fixture along the New England coast from Rhode Island to Acadia Maine and has always been well maintained. Her yawl rig offers many different sail configurations and is a blast to sail. </div>
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It is an old saw that says that the two best days of boat ownership are the day you buy her and the day you sell her. In this case, that's only half true. She will be sorely missed. </div>
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I am offering her at $28,500 to a good family.</div>
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-40308077807625755052014-02-05T17:59:00.000-08:002014-02-05T17:59:09.876-08:00The Sultry Winch<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmiOG6uGWxlLK686MoLYOxcMuQDu-pppfywwqyT52pW1x3jynV9-0OBSZ-X1NQS2F7DfxeUFviwMvMfrD4vBQ6m_l1pIq8ubdTxLlXhhwYVLDc-AEjWtlfBbjI1w-0nG581oUR8Ed9ztM/s1600/2014-02-05+08.41.14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmiOG6uGWxlLK686MoLYOxcMuQDu-pppfywwqyT52pW1x3jynV9-0OBSZ-X1NQS2F7DfxeUFviwMvMfrD4vBQ6m_l1pIq8ubdTxLlXhhwYVLDc-AEjWtlfBbjI1w-0nG581oUR8Ed9ztM/s1600/2014-02-05+08.41.14.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Winches on board sailboats make trimming sails much easier - unless they're frozen. Such was the case here. <i>Desiree's </i>bronze, Lewmar 40, two-speed Mothers of Mechanical Advantage brought low by the elements.<br />
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These winches adorned their delaminated pads as leaves composted in the main spindle, old grease congealed on the gears and bees (yes bees) made their homes under the casing in between the cogs. That said, these are made super-tough and of good material so they can take a fair amount of abuse. Getting them back in order, however, took a lot of elbow grease, WD-40, a couple of new pawl springs and winch grease.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIicKCUO2JifVcPDvnbjmzprynJKJVJ0b60Kqgv_aOMZ8ZQu57bqcg4xflB8r5Vjs9SABuXXelZDd3m5-cpKy4_K3a1pAz9f0PbDYzHlabjpgcQtAn9oENzAMsc2mVaDtxppY29vSol4/s1600/2014-02-05+09.32.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIicKCUO2JifVcPDvnbjmzprynJKJVJ0b60Kqgv_aOMZ8ZQu57bqcg4xflB8r5Vjs9SABuXXelZDd3m5-cpKy4_K3a1pAz9f0PbDYzHlabjpgcQtAn9oENzAMsc2mVaDtxppY29vSol4/s1600/2014-02-05+09.32.08.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>Once you remove the locking ring from the main spindle, the whole casing will lift right off. These rings can be tricky, but a screwdriver or knife edge will let you get the purchase you need. Once the ring is off and before lifting the casing, take off the metal plate around the spindle. Beneath it you will see two pawls designed to keep the winch operating in one direction. These pawls have little springs in the middle. Take the pawls out with care so as to not lose the spring (the first time you do this - and probably the second - you will likely lose the spring anyway; don't say I didn't warn you, but have some spares handy).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwA20FW1KxHIy2CrUrjw4_E5TtvX5VvF67CSJm772S18IJEGWZQxmVO6LRcpFf5fGE6kJUlTqymSQ3HVzH_w-TwZLdceieTIXlX-9ZW12b16ghDvdP4y9_CSLoqcZ96ES0uAZbe3xx6cI/s1600/2014-02-05+08.40.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwA20FW1KxHIy2CrUrjw4_E5TtvX5VvF67CSJm772S18IJEGWZQxmVO6LRcpFf5fGE6kJUlTqymSQ3HVzH_w-TwZLdceieTIXlX-9ZW12b16ghDvdP4y9_CSLoqcZ96ES0uAZbe3xx6cI/s1600/2014-02-05+08.40.56.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">The Naked Winch</td></tr>
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With the casing off, the roller bearings lift right off. I find that a toothbrush and WD-40 will clean these about as well as anything, but it is a messy job and you will go through a lot of rags or paper towels.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>The Lower Gears </i></b></span><br />
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The lower gears are held in by a spindle (it's the shiny metal square on top of the lower gears in the picture above). This spindle goes through the middle of the gears and they turn around it. In winches such as <i>Desiree's </i> that have sat for so long, old grease has caked up around the spindle which either inhibits the gears' ability to turn or it stops them completely. In my case, the spindle was frozen - mostly because of gunk rather than from rust or corrosion.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJ1KI3IamTwztbQhTiArxRd7fEAxyTXvZFAvdAAgfFVfs_9Sghe_gYgSeKUD1jlN7SZQdqv9Eufb4zD5SrjgXpu5MBo9zdysr-0a5EeMkwarfwLqhMIAqSzXHuNO1pjGLVZ4mXRV-d8U/s1600/2014-02-05+08.40.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJ1KI3IamTwztbQhTiArxRd7fEAxyTXvZFAvdAAgfFVfs_9Sghe_gYgSeKUD1jlN7SZQdqv9Eufb4zD5SrjgXpu5MBo9zdysr-0a5EeMkwarfwLqhMIAqSzXHuNO1pjGLVZ4mXRV-d8U/s1600/2014-02-05+08.40.29.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>Before you can remove the spindle, it has to be rotated such that it will come out clean. In it's working mode the flat square metal tab at the top of the spindle rests under a lip on the housing. This prevents it from coming out unexpectedly.<br />
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In the picture to the left, this tab is under the housing. In the "Naked Winch" picture above, it is rotated ready for removal. In my case, getting this tab to rotate took a lot of Liquid Wrench and some gentle, strategic taps with a hammer via an awl.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioAgjUfACuJyvyIEROVwFNq2ux3H8eROkwAiXJgqxrISw1gXUd_9yJIy0w0ptXl7bC8QnK_BmjF8ZRFI_8UkoGmyR97R3bZ5L1xdLxCI0xTGTSveo4ljWy5WrnwXhdReA4Sj3TXjo1r18/s1600/2014-02-05+08.44.17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioAgjUfACuJyvyIEROVwFNq2ux3H8eROkwAiXJgqxrISw1gXUd_9yJIy0w0ptXl7bC8QnK_BmjF8ZRFI_8UkoGmyR97R3bZ5L1xdLxCI0xTGTSveo4ljWy5WrnwXhdReA4Sj3TXjo1r18/s1600/2014-02-05+08.44.17.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a><br />
To remove the spindle, it may be necessary to invert the winch and tap with an awl or a small wooden dowel and hammer from the bottom. This does not require a lot of force - just enough to kick loose the junk and push the spindle up through the gears and housing.<br />
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Here you can see the spindle almost free of the gears. Remove the spindle and the gears and clean them up. Again, a toothbrush and WD-40 does a pretty fair job; look carefully though, some of the old grease will have hardened on the cogs or spindle and may need to be scraped off. A knife edge will usually do the trick. </div>
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Here are the dirty pawls, spindle, pawl springs and a bunch of gunk. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>Lubing the Winch</i></b></span></div>
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I have heard and read about people using all types of different greases on the winches to good effect, but I simply used a tube of West Marine winch grease because it is what I had. White lithium grease also works well and some have suggested Water Wheel Bearing grease. In any event, you want something that will stand up to the marine environment. Once you lube the lower gears and the roller bearings, you're pretty much good to go. Reassemble taking particular care not to lose the pawl springs. They can be a little tricky to get in, but not impossible. It's a good idea to have some spares even so. NOTE: Do not grease the pawls. You do not want them to get gummed up. A couple of drops of 3:1 machine oil will do you there. </div>
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My experience with winches are that they are generally bullet-proof. In consequence, they are often neglected. In truth, they should be dismantled, checked, cleaned and re-greased at the end of each season or as part of the fitting out work in the spring. It doesn't take long to do and you'll notice the difference. Winches carry heavy loads and their failure under load can be, if not catastrophic, at least exciting - but not in a good way. </div>
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Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7443240051994995672.post-57044534352277130322014-02-05T11:51:00.000-08:002014-02-09T14:54:41.875-08:00Separation Anxiety<div style="text-align: justify;">
It is ironic that on a wooden sloop, my major repair issue is fiberglass. But Poseidon (and whatever other sea gods there may be) work in mysterious ways to be sure. <i>Desiree </i>was built with MDO plywood decks and (I now know) her cabin top was sheathed in 3 layers of 1/8" Lauan plywood - presumably to promote bilateral flexibility. The <i>Dictator </i> model of the Friendship sloop has a pronounced lateral curve to the cabin top as well as a longitudinal arc forward. While this provides 6'2" headroom down below, it offers some challenges to the builder. Thus, it appears the builder used something thin and flexible, built it up in layers and then screwed it down with a vengeance. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_MtKZbyQR5fyWNZDH8-RvXCa7ahwNwVXrOc6JTpLNoW3fY-BGc3yk7nlmfWCYvbZiu7h-Jq_tMXvhBD7Zdx4ecMd7yHgEacZTrkE0aVHEC5XlCgeVvgQGd6MoWvudUjK_k0mF2_Y7o0/s1600/Delamination+Winch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_MtKZbyQR5fyWNZDH8-RvXCa7ahwNwVXrOc6JTpLNoW3fY-BGc3yk7nlmfWCYvbZiu7h-Jq_tMXvhBD7Zdx4ecMd7yHgEacZTrkE0aVHEC5XlCgeVvgQGd6MoWvudUjK_k0mF2_Y7o0/s1600/Delamination+Winch.jpg" height="170" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delaminated winch pad</td></tr>
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At any rate the whole furshlugginer mess was covered in fiberglass and awl grip. The job was well done and it is probably the thing that saved this boat from compost during her days in the wilderness. However, as these things go, there was some delamination to small areas in the cockpit, winch pads, cabin sides, stem and some significant delamination and underlying rot on the cabin top.</div>
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"When you don't know what your doing, go slow" is my mantra, here. As a amateur, I started by slowly peeling back those sections that were clearly bad, just to get a sense of the thing. In so doing, I learned more about how the cabin top was built. Clearly, information I'm going to need later.</div>
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Originally, it was my intent to replace only those sections that needed it. However, as I got into the work, it became clear that there was more rot and dampness than met the eye or my survey. To any experienced wooden boatsman, this is not a novel conclusion, I know, but I'm going slowly. It seems clear, for example, that once water seeps into plywood, the plys act as capillaries and the water "runs" along and under the plys and gets into places not immediately noticable. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5UwQBbDp37rQ53wYsBRTLmBPwcEvmKmtyewol2oxDtNvef1C-KPCWrWG1t0IRGgnwTvJ_skHy0xGCQ7D6BLbg60Dh2IH4FZb2oFNktGJSLW_6PFkXvioD0-u5uwMLZJhdbPlq1jogk5A/s1600/2014-01-18+14.12.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5UwQBbDp37rQ53wYsBRTLmBPwcEvmKmtyewol2oxDtNvef1C-KPCWrWG1t0IRGgnwTvJ_skHy0xGCQ7D6BLbg60Dh2IH4FZb2oFNktGJSLW_6PFkXvioD0-u5uwMLZJhdbPlq1jogk5A/s1600/2014-01-18+14.12.52.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starboard cabin top forward</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_aXNzIroB5jhPEO5Vortd60j0ULGmj0IBqj80fksJMaMOYVNruHZOiXe2VPwuwLEt8EncI32IAb4Wvx8KLLkkqtqpv3p9X9C8hmvvEeTgrP7A3xORMjN-njpX8R_cQbfL5zyKOwAwK0/s1600/2014-01-25+15.28.06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_aXNzIroB5jhPEO5Vortd60j0ULGmj0IBqj80fksJMaMOYVNruHZOiXe2VPwuwLEt8EncI32IAb4Wvx8KLLkkqtqpv3p9X9C8hmvvEeTgrP7A3xORMjN-njpX8R_cQbfL5zyKOwAwK0/s1600/2014-01-25+15.28.06.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Companionway hatch, Port side</td></tr>
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In the photograph to the left, you can see the leak started at the corner of the skylight combing and fanned out toward the edge of the house top. Similarly, in the photo on the right, you can see where water collected on the companionway slide, it leaked and spread out.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtCHme3qYskmi9n3ikAAq_uzGmHAzblwy_D6Ivdw3Oox0w0HV9Xz4q7CoeX6I9BJMMKgdJBAPu1_xw_tvONU1RlibEgXOS_BFNLyPTzpy1jUguQaV2VwZPEkKqmpyneI_raw9DKAyn4E/s1600/2014-01-25+15.37.47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtCHme3qYskmi9n3ikAAq_uzGmHAzblwy_D6Ivdw3Oox0w0HV9Xz4q7CoeX6I9BJMMKgdJBAPu1_xw_tvONU1RlibEgXOS_BFNLyPTzpy1jUguQaV2VwZPEkKqmpyneI_raw9DKAyn4E/s1600/2014-01-25+15.37.47.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of Port side companionway</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Causing the rot shown.</span></div>
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So, where we stand today is that I have decided to replace the entire cabin top. That way, we start new with good wood all around. The cabin top is not that big and, aside from a chimney, is free from obstructions. Moreover, the pronounced arc of the cabin top will make bending a large piece of plywood easier than a smaller scarf.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3cBT-9kPDfrISjwLTpcr1Rlj-8K4M-gft9ayKzckTH04NxMMz4TGPAYHOTMBEFGWsmjsNbOYRx8Era8N4j-o-Sp2wR39AjMFc4JkDjCUFPtQ8zNCr8pC8VAHwkEPdakH6RbCzIwXvWF8/s1600/2014-02-02+14.17.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3cBT-9kPDfrISjwLTpcr1Rlj-8K4M-gft9ayKzckTH04NxMMz4TGPAYHOTMBEFGWsmjsNbOYRx8Era8N4j-o-Sp2wR39AjMFc4JkDjCUFPtQ8zNCr8pC8VAHwkEPdakH6RbCzIwXvWF8/s1600/2014-02-02+14.17.51.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting back to basics </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2fjBoj8Muo-8hxU7A0mXosxyoRlC55SVDjtwUp2rU8DoAbJv-lfgjIdkFPvQFWxz_apqiDtPaT__AADisWbq7yHr2y0PL6d0SyIBe0gJsMSDsG4ycAr5SUl0JIBc-hisXju_b29HNRNY/s1600/2014-02-05+09.37.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2fjBoj8Muo-8hxU7A0mXosxyoRlC55SVDjtwUp2rU8DoAbJv-lfgjIdkFPvQFWxz_apqiDtPaT__AADisWbq7yHr2y0PL6d0SyIBe0gJsMSDsG4ycAr5SUl0JIBc-hisXju_b29HNRNY/s1600/2014-02-05+09.37.46.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 plys of 1/8' Lauan & fiberglass</td></tr>
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This may take awhile, but I'm going slow, remember?Jim Thoenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10510285134431531384noreply@blogger.com1